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Model: WFE381LVB0 Brand: Kenmore Age: 1 - 5 years
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Stan Stevens  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, June 14, 2011 9:33:48 AM(UTC)
Stan Stevens

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I have an F3EO error code which supposedly corresponds to a defective oven temperature sensor probe. The display panel will not show current oven temperature (room temp) and the oven will not function. I replaced the sensor with FSP part #W10181986 which I recently purchased from APP. However I still get an F3E0 error code. I checked the contacts from the control board to the sensor and all seem OK. I'm at lost what to do next. Is it possible that the new probe is defective? :(
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 3:39:21 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WFE381LVB0 30" ELECTRIC CERAN FREESTANDING RANGE SELF CLEAN OVEN | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Is it possible that the new probe is defective?
Although not common it is not unheard of to get a bad part from a manufacturer.
Though it is common enough that I always check parts before installing them.

Here is a good link with sensor info.
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html
Check out 7,8, 20 and 21.

If the sensor checks out OK,
Recheck the connector on the board.
You may have a cold solder joint. Usually they are a duller silver or may have pin holes. Also wiggle the connector while looking at the solder side of the board to see if the connector pins move in the solder.
A magnifying glass helps here and is also useful when looking for hairline cracks in the solder trails.

If all is OK then odds are your control board is toast.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
WFE381.pdf (258kb) downloaded 8 time(s).
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Stan Stevens  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 7:22:08 AM(UTC)
Stan Stevens

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Denman- Thank you for your thorough reply. I have checked the electrical resistance and continuity of the old and new oven temperature sensors and both tested OK. I also checked the solder contacts at the control board and they appear to be very solid. I've come to the conclusion that my control board is defective. I have placed an order for a new control board. Could you give me an idea what could have caused the control board to fail? Thank you for your help.
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denman  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, June 15, 2011 8:44:52 AM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Could you give me an idea what could have caused the control board to fail?[/COLOR]
Cannot really say as with any electronics part components do fail.
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tj_fixit  
#5 Posted : Thursday, July 12, 2018 1:00:53 PM(UTC)
tj_fixit

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very very common issue is Power outages. the electronics have little protection for the significant power voltage spikes that accompany power outage/restoration from the electric company. (if you do not have a whole house surge protector that can handle the 50000 Volt minispike as the grid reconnects)

lost two control boards (oven and washing machine) before i figured this one out. (culprit was the line transformer that failed when PG&E was trying to diagnose a variable voltage on one leg, that i reported)

of course they take no responsibility for failed appliances. and insisted right up to the catastrophic failure that there was nothing wrong, and that i couldn't have detected it anyway.
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