Dryer has been running fine. Yesterday, it tripped the breaker. I reset breaker and started dryer again. It tripped again. Obviously there is an issue here. I have tested everything and checked the wiring for shorts. I can find nothing that doesn't check out. Only the Thermostat, internal-bias switch located on the vent tube did I not get a continuity reading from the 2 inside (smaller purple wires).

Cannot find info on this unit.

By the sound of it you have a thermostat that has an internal heater. This is used to give lower lower dry temps when turned on it switches the thermostat off more often. Usually it is about 6000 ohms.

If drum starts to turn, then shortly after the breaker blows could be your heating element is sagging. As it heats up it sags more touches the case and blows the breaker. It cools then returns to where it is no longer shorting out.

You could try disconnecting both wires to the heating element and measuring them to the case. Should be infinite resistance (open). But as I said it may not short to the case when cool.

Run it with no heat (Air or Fluff) cycle. If it runs OK this will eliminate the motor as a cause.

There are 2 outer wires, the 2 inner wires. I have continuity between the outers, but the center prongs seem to be open.
This is the thermostat I mentioned, it has a heater built into it.
The 2 outer connections are the contacts. Should be closed at room temperature (0 ohms)
The 2 inner connections are the heater. Should be around 6,000 ohms.
Try a higher resistance scale on your meter.

This could cause your problem but it would have to fail in a very unusual way (short to the case) and I would imagine the high current would blow it open.

I have put thermo back in, disconnected the heating element. The dryer runs.:confused: So, I am to assume that the heating element is bad? Did you have any luck finding my dryer by model#? The thermo connection on lint tube (4 prong I have been wondering about) rattles when shaken (i couldn't resist). Is that normal for those thermo parts?