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bgjohnstonpm  
#1 Posted : Thursday, April 28, 2011 9:30:27 AM(UTC)
bgjohnstonpm

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Joined: 4/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

Bottom freezer collecting frost on stored items.

Noise is click, buzz, relay click off.

Suspect timer or heat coil? Know that timer is above refrigerator section behind light assembly, where is heat coil?

Test procedures?

Thank you most kindly for any advice

Brian
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Thursday, April 28, 2011 10:21:56 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Originally Posted by: bgjohnstonpm Go to Quoted Post
Bottom freezer collecting frost on stored items.

Noise is click, buzz, relay click off.

Suspect timer or heat coil? Know that timer is above refrigerator section behind light assembly, where is heat coil?

Test procedures?

Thank you most kindly for any advice

Brian


Brian,
That sounds more like a compressor relay or bad compressor.
Defrost systems don't usually make clicking or buzzing noises,

To access the heater and terminator, you'll need to remove everything inside the freezer, including the door and drawer rails on the walls, remove the screws holding the metal back wall to the cabinet, pull the panel out slowly and disconnect the wires from the fan motor, then remove the panel. you'll have access to the evaporator, defrost heater, and thermostat.

You should move the unit out and isolate the noise, that way we know where to go from there.

:) :) :)
bgjohnstonpm  
#3 Posted : Thursday, April 28, 2011 10:57:04 AM(UTC)
bgjohnstonpm

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Brian,
That sounds more like a compressor relay or bad compressor.
Defrost systems don't usually make clicking or buzzing noises,

To access the heater and terminator, you'll need to remove everything inside the freezer, including the door and drawer rails on the walls, remove the screws holding the metal back wall to the cabinet, pull the panel out slowly and disconnect the wires from the fan motor, then remove the panel. you'll have access to the evaporator, defrost heater, and thermostat.

You should move the unit out and isolate the noise, that way we know where to go from there.

:) :) :)



Joe,

Have back off refrig, and back panel out of freezer compartment.

Heat coil is 30.2 ohms, thermostat tests open when warm.

Buzz is definitely compressor. Cycles about every 2 1/2 minutes, and cycles on for about 10 seconds of buzzing, then clicks off.

????
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Thursday, April 28, 2011 2:00:06 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Originally Posted by: bgjohnstonpm Go to Quoted Post
Joe,

Have back off refrig, and back panel out of freezer compartment.

Heat coil is 30.2 ohms, thermostat tests open when warm.

Buzz is definitely compressor. Cycles about every 2 1/2 minutes, and cycles on for about 10 seconds of buzzing, then clicks off.

????


BG,

OK, so the heater and the thermostat check OK,

Here's an easy way to test the compressor windings to determine if your compressor is bad or if you will need a start relay/overload assembly.

Once you remove the cover off the side of the compressor, carefully remove the overload relay assembly.

Part number: AP4013414
Part number: AP4013414



Test the compressor motor for continuity using a multitester. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1.
Place one [COLOR=#595959 !important][COLOR=#595959 !important]probe[/color][/color] on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multitester should display a reading of zero ohms.

Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multitester displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service.

Now test the compressor for ground. With the multitester still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn.
None of the terminals should have continuity; the multitester should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.

If all checks are proper, you'll need the relay assembly.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
john j.  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, February 16, 2016 10:00:46 AM(UTC)
john j.

Rank: Member

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Joined: 2/16/2016(UTC)
Posts: 1

Joe M. APP Team,
Thanks for the diagnoses and video above it saved me from going out and getting a new fridge! Came home from work one day & was told "I think the fridge is broke". It was not cooling at all. I shut it down for 10-15 mins. to cool compressor. Turned t-stat on and heard it (clicking) cutting out on the overload after about 10-20secs. Fridge was purchased in Sept. 2003. I thought the compressor was ceased, burned out or hoping it was just the capacitor and/or relay. So I googled my model number ARB2517CC parts list and clicked on this link/forum! appliancepartspros.com Compressor & capacitor checked out so it was relay/overload. When I removed the relay to check the compressor winding's it was rattling a lot and pieces of I believe the ceramic insulator were falling to the ground when i shook it. That was good indication the relay was bad. Besides the fact that for as long as I can remember not to long after we bought the fridge every once in a while I would hear "chattering" when the t-stat called for cooling, which was probably the relay assembly contactors way back then (recall?)! I had a feeling it had something to do with the relay! It wasn't broke so....til now. We were fortunate to have a 2nd fridge & upright freezer to use in the meantime till I got to it. Picked up relay/overload at Sundberg America (sorry) wanted it now. Fridge was purchased in Sept. 2003.
So for $67 its working now!
UserPostedImage

http://cdn.appliancepart...02783-ap4078361_01_m.jpg
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, February 16, 2016 10:41:07 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Originally Posted by: john j. Go to Quoted Post
Joe M. APP Team,
Thanks for the diagnoses and video above it saved me from going out and getting a new fridge! Came home from work one day & was told "I think the fridge is broke". It was not cooling at all. I shut it down for 10-15 mins. to cool compressor. Turned t-stat on and heard it (clicking) cutting out on the overload after about 10-20secs. Fridge was purchased in Sept. 2003. I thought the compressor was ceased, burned out or hoping it was just the capacitor and/or relay. So I googled my model number ARB2517CC parts list and clicked on this link/forum! appliancepartspros.com Compressor & capacitor checked out so it was relay/overload. When I removed the relay to check the compressor winding's it was rattling a lot and pieces of I believe the ceramic insulator were falling to the ground when i shook it. That was good indication the relay was bad. Besides the fact that for as long as I can remember not to long after we bought the fridge every once in a while I would hear "chattering" when the t-stat called for cooling, which was probably the relay assembly contactors way back then (recall?)! I had a feeling it had something to do with the relay! It wasn't broke so....til now. We were fortunate to have a 2nd fridge & upright freezer to use in the meantime till I got to it. Picked up relay/overload at Sundberg America (sorry) wanted it now. Fridge was purchased in Sept. 2003.
So for $67 its working now!
UserPostedImage

http://cdn.appliancepart...02783-ap4078361_01_m.jpg


John, We're Glad we could help you out !!! You should be good for a few more years. Thanks for the update. Good Luck,
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