Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
Mott4  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 13, 2011 9:05:31 AM(UTC)
Mott4

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/13/2011(UTC)
Posts: 2

I was told that I have an [FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']adaptive defrost control board on my refrigerator. Can this be tested or does it just have to be replaced?[/FONT]
[FONT='Calibri','sans-serif'][/FONT]
[FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']My refrigerator side of my side by side is gets warm. I then will defrost the coil and it works for 7-10 days but then is warm again. I was told to check my defrost timer but i am told ine does not have one of those it has an [FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']adaptive defrost control board instead.[/FONT][/FONT]
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, April 13, 2011 11:06:31 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for ADMIRAL LSD2615HEB REF - SXS/I&W | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Yes you have an adaptive defrost board (Item 12 in Section 3)

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, see the tech sheet.
Compressor and fans will shut off
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the board needs replacing.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element (Item 7 in Section 6) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat (Item 3 in Section 6) and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost board is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
File Attachment(s):
LSD2615.pdf (171kb) downloaded 224 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Users browsing this topic
Guest (2)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.