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dhs70flh  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 6, 2011 10:26:18 AM(UTC)
dhs70flh

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Freezer compartment getting warm especially at the top. I took the back panel off of the freezer and removed the Heating Element and initially it reads 0 ohms and then within a second or two the resistance goes up to 28 ohms. When I start the refrig the evaporator fan at the top part of the freezer comes on slowly and then comes up to speed and moves a lot of air. I'm not sure where the heating element thermostat is located (it may be clipped to the top of thye condenser coil). I haven't checked that. I also an assuming that the defrost timer function has been taken over by the main control board (AP4436216). Is that true? Is it possible that we have overloaded the freezer limiting the circulation of cold air?:confused:
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Thursday, April 7, 2011 5:50:48 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: dhs70flh Go to Quoted Post
Freezer compartment getting warm especially at the top. I took the back panel off of the freezer and removed the Heating Element and initially it reads 0 ohms and then within a second or two the resistance goes up to 28 ohms. When I start the refrig the evaporator fan at the top part of the freezer comes on slowly and then comes up to speed and moves a lot of air. I'm not sure where the heating element thermostat is located (it may be clipped to the top of thye condenser coil). I haven't checked that. I also an assuming that the defrost timer function has been taken over by the main control board (AP4436216). Is that true? Is it possible that we have overloaded the freezer limiting the circulation of cold air?:confused:



Dhs,

Based on your post, You have a cracked defrost heater( 0 ohms then 28 ohms) Presuming you tested the heater with the wires off at the terminals.

Part number: AP4355467
Part number: AP4355467


(always remove at least one wire off the component,when testing resistance, so you don't get a false reading).

You're corect, the defrost hi limit thermostat is mounted(clipped) onto the top of the evaporator tubing. It should have a closed circuit across the two wires at or below room temperature.

Part number: AP3884317
Part number: AP3884317


The defrost system is controlled through the "mother board" based on inputs from various components in the system. That's not where you want to start, after you recheck or replace the heater and thermostat, would be the time to consider it.

By the way, you have your terminology wrong, the Evaporator Coil is in the freezer compartment, your Condenser Coil is located in the compressor compartment, in the back of the refrigerator. You should consider, checking and cleaning the condenser coil, if you haven't yet.

:) :) :)
dhs70flh  
#3 Posted : Thursday, April 7, 2011 6:26:48 AM(UTC)
dhs70flh

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Thank You for your response. You're right I was referring to the evaporator coil. I tested the defrost heating element with both leads removed. When I test the Defrost Limiter Thermostat should I read zero ohms when the thermostat is at zero degrees and an open circuit when the thermostat is at room temperature.

As long as the rear of the freezer is open does it make sense to replace both the thermostat and the defrost heater? And, I did clean the condenser coil which was an embarassment..

Should I be concerned that the evaporator fan seems to start slow and then builds speed after about 5-10 seconds??

Thanks again.
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Thursday, April 7, 2011 10:21:37 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: dhs70flh Go to Quoted Post
Thank You for your response. You're right I was referring to the evaporator coil. I tested the defrost heating element with both leads removed. When I test the Defrost Limiter Thermostat should I read zero ohms when the thermostat is at zero degrees and an open circuit when the thermostat is at room temperature.

As long as the rear of the freezer is open does it make sense to replace both the thermostat and the defrost heater? And, I did clean the condenser coil which was an embarassment..

Should I be concerned that the evaporator fan seems to start slow and then builds speed after about 5-10 seconds??

Thanks again.


DHS,

Don't worry about the condenser coil, just remember to check and clean it every couple of years, it makes the fridge more efficient, as a matter of fact I need to clean the one on my fridge...

As for the thermostat repalcement, I usually replace both,but I was leaving that up to you, it's a good idea,though.

Your evaporator fan, is a variable speed fan, they usually start out on the low speed, then step up to the high speed, Your fan is OK, based on your description.

I'm pretty sure you'll be fine,from heere on out.

:) :) :)
dhs70flh  
#5 Posted : Friday, April 8, 2011 5:37:01 AM(UTC)
dhs70flh

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Thank You again for your help. Parts are on order from you guys. Just waiting now.:) :) :)
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Friday, April 8, 2011 6:29:34 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: dhs70flh Go to Quoted Post
Thank You again for your help. Parts are on order from you guys. Just waiting now.:) :) :)



Great,

Drop us a line, and let us know how things worked out.

:) :) :)
dhs70flh  
#7 Posted : Monday, May 2, 2011 5:52:48 AM(UTC)
dhs70flh

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I replaced the defrost heater and the defrost hi limit thermostat. Everything was fine for about 2 1/2 weeks, then the same problem again - evaporator coil completely iced up. Assuming that the parts I got are good and I installed them properly, it seems that we still have the same problem. I tested the new defrost heater before I installed it and was a little concerned when I got the same resistance readings on the new defrost heater that I did on the old one, but I put the new parts in anyway.

What now? It would seem now that the problem is either the main control board or internal wiring. Have any suggestions as to where to go from here other than buy a new non-GE refrigerator??

:confused:
Joe / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Monday, May 2, 2011 7:38:04 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: dhs70flh Go to Quoted Post
I replaced the defrost heater and the defrost hi limit thermostat. Everything was fine for about 2 1/2 weeks, then the same problem again - evaporator coil completely iced up. Assuming that the parts I got are good and I installed them properly, it seems that we still have the same problem. I tested the new defrost heater before I installed it and was a little concerned when I got the same resistance readings on the new defrost heater that I did on the old one, but I put the new parts in anyway.

What now? It would seem now that the problem is either the main control board or internal wiring. Have any suggestions as to where to go from here other than buy a new non-GE refrigerator??

:confused:


DHS,

Here's a quick test procedure for the "motherboard". It'll help determine where the problem is. You'll need a short piece of wire with both ends stripped of the insulation(jumper wire).


With the refrigerator running, unplug it and remove the motherboard cover in the back.On the mother board locate the power connector in the bottom, left. Pull the connector off the motherboard and put a wire jumper between the connector pins of the wire harness that mate with the motherboard pins labeled line and def. Plug in fridge.
If you now get defrost action in the freezer, you motherboard is probably bad.
If no defrost, you have either a bad defrost heater, defrost thermostat,or wiring problem.
In this way, you will be able to confirm which parts are bad.
Just in case,

Part number: AP4436216
Part number: AP4436216


Good Luck,

:) :) :)
dhs70flh  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, May 3, 2011 6:15:51 AM(UTC)
dhs70flh

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I had defrosted the evaporator coil and now the refrigerator has been running again for about a day. I'm assuming the defrost hi limit thermostat will be set properly for this test when the freezer temp is cold. Is a 16 ga. jumper wire heavy enough? And I'm assuming the jumper wire is connected to the plug that was disconnected from the circuit board.

How do I know if the thing goes into defrost cycle? Is it something I can see by looking or feeling at the defrost heater?
Joe / APP Team  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, May 3, 2011 6:38:12 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: dhs70flh Go to Quoted Post
I had defrosted the evaporator coil and now the refrigerator has been running again for about a day. I'm assuming the defrost hi limit thermostat will be set properly for this test when the freezer temp is cold. Is a 16 ga. jumper wire heavy enough? And I'm assuming the jumper wire is connected to the plug that was disconnected from the circuit board.

How do I know if the thing goes into defrost cycle? Is it something I can see by looking or feeling at the defrost heater?


DHS,

Correct on all counts, the thermostat/ thermistor, has to be a closed circuit(evaporator area needs to be 35 to 45 degrees(usually). It's probably cold enough by now.
A 16 guage wire, should be heavy enough for a jumper wire, and yes, you'll install the jumper wire in the connector/wire harness, not on the board.
Usually, you can hear or feel the defrost cycle. Quite often, and after a few minutes that the heater is on, you can hear the defrost water "sizzle" when it drips down on the heater, you can visually see the heater glow red, and if your careful, you can feel the heat, by putting your hand near the element, Carefully.

:) :) :)
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