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mjbirdie75  
#1 Posted : Saturday, February 19, 2011 7:19:43 AM(UTC)
mjbirdie75

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Joined: 2/19/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4

Unusual problem. Two weeks ago, refrigerator stopped working. Pulled it out, unplugged cord, and cleaned area underneath (coils, etc.) with air compressor. Plugged back in, still would not come on.

Removed water filter and it clicked right on. Replaced water filter with new and it worked normally for about 18 hours and stopped cooling again.

Pulled water filter out, poured water out, put filter back in and it came on again. Have been doing same routine for about last 8 days.

It's a brand new filter so I don't understand what the problem is. Should I try another new filter?

Another weird thing is that sometimes pulling out the ice maker tray and pushing it back in will bring the compressor back to life. What gives? Any help would be appreciated.
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dallas612  
#2 Posted : Monday, March 21, 2011 7:01:45 PM(UTC)
dallas612

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it may have to do with defrost rather than anything with the filter.
In the back of the freezer remove the cover and check for contnunity after unplugging the power.

In that circuit is a bimetalic and if that is going bad a simple jar may start it to work.

Another thing is the defrost comtrol timer as the problem.

Mine had a problem that a simple cycling the temp control off and back on started it to work and nuw I am waiting for it to stop again so I can track it farther.

good luck
mjbirdie75  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, March 22, 2011 10:25:22 AM(UTC)
mjbirdie75

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Thanks for posting. I've been through quite a few more ups and downs with it since my original post.

After adjusting thermostat controls at rear, freezer and refrig got so cold that milk was freezing, supply water for ice maker froze in line, door water line froze too. Eventually got temps back to normal and all defrosted.

I think you are on the right track with the "simple jar". What I've been having to do when freezer starts defrosting (when compressor not coming on) is tap on the housing where the thermostat controls are in the refrig compartment and it will come right on.

I will try your test in the next couple of days. Can you tell me any more specifically where I need to check for continuity? Thanks.
dallas612  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, March 22, 2011 3:06:52 PM(UTC)
dallas612

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When you remove the cover in the back of the freezer you should be able reconize the bimetalic and it will be in-line with the coil. Do a good visual and if you don't see the problem check both with an ohm meter. If both are ok the go for the defrost timer under the cover in the upper back of thr refrigerator.

good luck
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