DR,

No,

You can't bbypass the tray sensor, it is a resistance circuit ( control board is looking for a specific ohms reading at a certain temperature) If you bypass it. you'll get a false reading and the control will not function properly, if at all.

If you have a meter you can check the resistance readings:

Room Temperature(70 dgrs.) resistance should be 1093 ohms
Freezing Temperature(32 dgrs) resistance should be 3933 ohms
Frozen Temperature(0 dgrs) resistance should be 13290 ohms.

The function of the sensor, is to inform the control that the tray/ice has reached proper temperature, and it's time to rotate and drop the cubes into the bin.

But before we go too far,

Check and make sure the shut off arm(lever) is in the fully dropped position, and not stuck somewhere in between.

Press and hold the black rubber button( test switch) for 2 or 3 seconds, and see if the ice maker runs a cycle.

We'll keep an eye out for your response,

:cool: :cool: :cool:

DR,

I haven't run into that before.

I didn't work on a whole lot of these units, but what I have here, and what I remember, and your post,

First thing, order another tray and tray sensor, also check and reduce the temperature in the freezer compartment(reccomended temperature is 3 to 5 degrees).

We know the control head is working properly, because it works in the test mode.

We know the housing and other components are OK, because it does attempt to release the cubes.

But, if that sensor has wrong resistance or the freezer temperature is too cold, I can imagine that tray getting too cold and brittle, and breaking, as you described.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)

DR,

Now that you've reset the temperatures, and the tray does not break when it twists, and the ice maker operates in the test mode.

Yes, your tray sensor, is most likely the problem, it does control the ice maker rotation and dump procedure.

As I stated before, there were problems with that sensor a few years ago.

That's the next logical, repair.

:) :) :)