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Joined: 1/27/2011(UTC) Posts: 1
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Originally Posted by: lindak00 ![Go to Quoted Post Go to Quoted Post](/Themes/yafvision/icon_latest_reply.gif) some ome told me to replace the control board on the dryer I dont know what to do what's next
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/27/2011(UTC) Posts: 1
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Originally Posted by: lindak00 ![Go to Quoted Post Go to Quoted Post](/Themes/yafvision/icon_latest_reply.gif) some ome told me to replace the control board on the dryer I dont know what to do that sounds to simple
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Joined: 9/29/2010(UTC) Posts: 3
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I had a similar problem where I was getting 120 volts at the heater element and everything else check good (I had continuity thru the limit switches and the heater element) I finally solved the problem by tracing the voltage throughout the dryer. I had 120 volts before the high limit switch and 120 volts at the heater element but they were not combing. I bypassed the high limit switch to see what happened and I had 240 volts at the heating element. I then bought a replacement high limit switch (it was a kit with both sensors) and the problem was permanently solved. I now have 240 volts at the heater element. The high limit switch had continuity but it also had a ohm reading around 500. The appliance part guy said it partially failed and that it was enough to be causing my problem. I just know that my dryer now works. Before the fix the max drum temperature was 130 degree and now the drum temperature gets up to 170 degrees (measured with digital infrared thermometer after 5 minutes of running with a empty dryer). Hope this helps someone. Originally Posted by: ddavis263 ![Go to Quoted Post Go to Quoted Post](/Themes/yafvision/icon_latest_reply.gif) House power is fine. Other dryers work fine on the same recepticial.
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