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I measured the voltage across the terminals of the outer top heating element with the oven in preheat and got 121v and 123 volts (two tries). You now want me to measure the voltage across the terminals of the doubler relay.Correct? There is four, two red,a white and a yellow. One red has the inline fuse going to the power input terminal block, the other goes to the convenction ring element, the white goes to the cooling fan motor and the yellow heads up towards the control board. Do we want to measure across the two reds??? Too lengthy of a description, but I am a rookie at this.Thanks.
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OOPs!!!
Lets back up
You should have 240 volts across the heating elements.
I cannot see the relay dropping ~120 volts across the contacts, they would burn up.
I will have to sit down and go over the wiring diagram again.
It looks like you are just connected across half the line. L1 or L2 to Neutral (120 volts) and not L1 to L2 (240 volts)
I assume the voltage you measured was constant and did not fluctuate too much. |
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I believe the 2 red wires will be the correct ones for the elements. They should be heavier gauge wire.
The wiring diagram does not show a fuse. I would pull it and check it.
This still does not explain how we end up with 120 on the oven elements unless we have a short to ground somewhere and this blew this fuse and now one side of the oven elements where they are joined together is shorted to ground and open from the L2 side.
Also recheck the power in just to be sure it is 240 volts but how the stove top elements can work normally without the 240 is beyond me. |
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Sorry for some reason your last two answers did not generate e-mails. I did not mention before that when I got 120 v across the h.e., I checked at L1/N, L2/N got 120+ volts in each and 240 + at L1/L2 at tthe 4 way wall receptacle.
Lets not forget that this happened after the self cleaning cycle and my wife tells me that is the first time since we have the oven (9 yrs) that she has used it. (old fashioned hard way she does it!!) . I think your thought of short to ground makes sense.
The inline fuse appears ok. I will check it and write again.
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The fuse you found has been bugging me as I did not see it on the wiring diagram so I went and took a look at the HS10 wiring diagram. Low and behold there's the fuse. It is not uncommon for manufacturers to make small changes without changing a Model Number and sometimes they make major changes without a Model change. I am wondering if we have a transition unit here re: HS1 model number and HS10 guts. HS1 = Model KERC607HBS1HS10 = Model KERC607HBS10So now we have to confirm what we actually have. In the HS1 the control/display board has the element control relays on it. In the HS10 there is a separate board that has the control relays Also are you in Canada? As that also makes a difference to the wiring. |
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I have not checked the in line fuse yet. Any shortcut method to do it? Our oven has no separate board for the control relays. I think I have seen them in the one and only control board, 4 rectangular tall boxes on the board? Im not in Canada, mid Florida.
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Latest update. Removed the lead from the terminal power board to the doubler relay with the inline fuse. Tested, open, bad fuse. Went to get a 20 amp littlefuse and had the lead with the inline fuse tested at store. Result the same fuse no good. Replaced the lead with good fuse. Powered up. Large puff,spark, fuse blown. (it seemed to come from the oven side where the double relay is). Stove top still works fine. Oven back as before. How do I test the doubler relay with the power off?
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Rank: Member
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Replaced the DLB Relay. Oven works great, preheating to 350 F in 11 minutes versus the 45 it took before. End of thread.
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