Originally Posted by: vansickek 
I was replacing the motor on this Whirlpool dryer, and on reassembly I made a fatal error. After plugging in and live testing the motor assembly and dryer operation, I failed to unplug the dryer when final assembling the metal back . . . ZAAP! :o I shorted the metal back cover against the red / white terminal of the Thermostat, internal - bias (part marked 8318268; your part# AP3045874). Now dryer works and blows, just no heat.
My obvious 1st [FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']replacement [/font]choice is the Thermostat referenced above (the red/white terminal is blackened), but I'd like to test it and other electrically adjacent components to determine if I fried other parts too. I have already tested the adjacent the Dryer Thermal Fuse, and found continuity across the terminals, so I presume that's ok.
Can someone provide me the normal range meter test readings of other components in the gas heat circuitry; (t-stat high limit, gas valve coil(s), gas igniter. Thanks.
Vansickek
What a shame,
I take for granted, you've already checked and repaired any damaged wires, correct ?
With a meter, the meter set for the lowest resistance setting(rx1 usually).
At room temperature, all of the thermostats and fuses should read infinite resistance(closed circuits/000), with the wires off the component you're testing.
If you find no problems there, you'd want to test the timer heat circuit and the heat switch circuit.
At the timer, with the dial in a heat cycle setting(timed dry) you should read a closed circuit, across the Red and Black terminals.
And at the temperature selector switch, with a hi heat selection on the switch you should read a closed circuit from the Red to Red terminals on that switch.
I haven't had a short (like yours) damage an igniter or flame switch, but if you want to circuit test them,
Just be carefull, don't damage the glow bar igniter, testing it,
and like the other components, they will have closed circuits, if cool, as well.
As for the gas valve coils, you may get a false reading but,
The 2 terminal coil, should have 1000 to 1300 ohms resistance.
The 3 terminal coil, should have 1300 to 1400 ohms resistance across the two terminals, on the left and 500 to 600 ohms resistance acros the two outside terminals(with the terminals facing you).
The only thing left, would be a bad heat circuit in the "New" motor, you just replaced.
:) :) :)
