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bec777@charter.net  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, November 25, 2008 10:43:50 AM(UTC)
bec777@charter.net

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My washer fills and drains fine, but it won't agitate or spin. It makes a grinding noise and looks like it is attempting to agitate. Looked at repair help and suggested dog and cam problem and to remove agitator to access those parts. It suggests to remove the cap and remove a 7/16 bolt. bolt head under cap doesn't exist or bolt is upside down so no way to remove. there is a mylar piece that appears to screw on to that bolt. please help.
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magician59  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, November 25, 2008 10:51:51 AM(UTC)
magician59

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The noise you're describing points to the motor coupler. When the machine is overloaded, the coupler will break, separating the motor from the transmission, to prevent expensive damage. It is relatively easy to replace.
bec777@charter.net  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, November 25, 2008 1:52:38 PM(UTC)
bec777@charter.net

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what is the procedure to repair it? do you access it from the agitator, or from the back? How can i confirm that is my problem?
magician59  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, November 25, 2008 3:10:35 PM(UTC)
magician59

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Everything mechanical is accessed through the front of the machine. The entire cabinet comes off. First, unplug the machine. Next, pull the end caps off the console. This exposes two screwa on the front of the console, one at each corner. Remove the screws and the console will pull slightly forward, and swing up on its hinges. You will then notice a plastic connector about center. Separate it. This is your lid switch connector.
The next thing you'll see is wavy spring clips (usually brass plated, but often dingy or rusted with age). Applying a downward and forward pressure on them with a screwdriver will pop them out of the slots on the cabinet. They hook into the back panel.
With the clips off, you can now rock the cabinet forward and off the chassis and move it out of the way. It weighs maybe 40 pounds; awkward to handle. Bottom center is the motor/pump assembly. The pump is clipped top and bottom to the motor. No need to disconnect hoses; just remove the clips and move the pump out of the way. Next, same types of clips on the motor. They're generally screwed to the motor with 5/16 inch hex drive screws. Remove the bottom one first. The motor is deceptively heavy. The coupler is a three piece assembly. Removal and reinstallation is self-evident, but takes patience.
The reassembly is just the reverse of this procedure. The hardest parts are lining up the motoe and coupler when reinstallng them; and making sure the cabinet sits properly on the alignment tabs on the chassis.
Let me know how it goes.
ericburnley  
#5 Posted : Sunday, January 25, 2009 1:21:06 PM(UTC)
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I just wanted to come back and say THANK YOU to magician59. I had this exact issue occur with our Kenmore washer, and your instructions were concise, easy to follow, and exactly what I needed. This fix cost me a total of $5.50 (incl shipping).

The only issue I had was that one of the new metal center coupler pieces was a bit tight for the washer's shaft, so I ended up leaving the unbroken original coupler piece with the plastic center in place for now. I got the one for the motor in place by tapping it with the handle of a screwdriver, but the washer's shaft was a bit more difficult to reach. If (or when) the plastic one breaks, I can figure out how to get the new piece in place. At the time, it had been a very long day and we had a large amount of laundry to get to.

Thanks again!
bigmac1465  
#6 Posted : Sunday, April 19, 2009 9:31:10 PM(UTC)
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Kudos to "magician59"!
I just followed the instruction to the last dot and the washer is working again.
I too ran into the same problem "ericburnley" did and ended up replacing only the broken piece because of the shaft tightness issue.
Thank you very much.
magician59  
#7 Posted : Monday, April 20, 2009 4:29:48 AM(UTC)
magician59

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So glad to know you were able to fix it
1 Thanks for the feedback. It is comforting to hear that an instruction or a tip offered was both understood AND helpful.
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