The noise you're describing points to the motor coupler. When the machine is overloaded, the coupler will break, separating the motor from the transmission, to prevent expensive damage. It is relatively easy to replace.

Everything mechanical is accessed through the front of the machine. The entire cabinet comes off. First, unplug the machine. Next, pull the end caps off the console. This exposes two screwa on the front of the console, one at each corner. Remove the screws and the console will pull slightly forward, and swing up on its hinges. You will then notice a plastic connector about center. Separate it. This is your lid switch connector.
The next thing you'll see is wavy spring clips (usually brass plated, but often dingy or rusted with age). Applying a downward and forward pressure on them with a screwdriver will pop them out of the slots on the cabinet. They hook into the back panel.
With the clips off, you can now rock the cabinet forward and off the chassis and move it out of the way. It weighs maybe 40 pounds; awkward to handle. Bottom center is the motor/pump assembly. The pump is clipped top and bottom to the motor. No need to disconnect hoses; just remove the clips and move the pump out of the way. Next, same types of clips on the motor. They're generally screwed to the motor with 5/16 inch hex drive screws. Remove the bottom one first. The motor is deceptively heavy. The coupler is a three piece assembly. Removal and reinstallation is self-evident, but takes patience.
The reassembly is just the reverse of this procedure. The hardest parts are lining up the motoe and coupler when reinstallng them; and making sure the cabinet sits properly on the alignment tabs on the chassis.
Let me know how it goes.

Kudos to "magician59"!
I just followed the instruction to the last dot and the washer is working again.
I too ran into the same problem "ericburnley" did and ended up replacing only the broken piece because of the shaft tightness issue.
Thank you very much.