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tleslie  
#1 Posted : Sunday, December 12, 2010 11:31:07 AM(UTC)
tleslie

Rank: Member

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Joined: 12/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

My oven does not work, the clock & cooktop does. I am getting a steady PF code that will not clear, & touchpad does not respond at all. My incoming power checks 220 / 110 at receptacle. I have replaced the control and the touchpad, so I am way past the point of no return. Any help at this point would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Monday, December 13, 2010 11:22:43 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Originally Posted by: tleslie Go to Quoted Post
My oven does not work, the clock & cooktop does. I am getting a steady PF code that will not clear, & touchpad does not respond at all. My incoming power checks 220 / 110 at receptacle. I have replaced the control and the touchpad, so I am way past the point of no return. Any help at this point would be much appreciated.
Thanks,


T,

What was the original problem ?

Failure codes etc. ?

The "PF" code indicates a power failure.

You have 220 VAC at the outlet, but,

Do you have 220 VAC at the terminal block ?

Do you have 110 VAC from L1 to Neutral, and L2 to Neutral at the terminal block.

What about 110 VAC at the clock connector ?
(Clock Connector P4, pin#1(white) to pin#3(black)with the connector attached and insert your meter probes through the back(wire insertion side),and the clock display on, you should read line voltage(110 VAC).

With the repairs you've made, I would have to think, you've got a voltage or wiring problem at or to the ERC/clock, when voltage is applied to it(under a load).

Let us know what you find,Please ...

:confused: :confused: :confused:
tleslie  
#3 Posted : Monday, December 13, 2010 8:38:00 PM(UTC)
tleslie

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

The original problem started while the oven & cook top were in operation. The touchpad showed a code breifly and then went to all 8/s. I did not record the code, but shut off the power to the unit and then turned back on. The stove came up with the "PF" and that is the way it has stayed
throughout all the attemps to repair.
Tonight I tested the voltage at the range connections. I got 119 V at both L1 to N, & L2 to N, & 239 V at L1 to L2. I am getting 119 v at the clock connections under load as you instructed,
FYI, I did check the resistance thru the oven thermostat. I got "0" ohms. I checked with the leads still connected as was suggested by the manual I was using. Isn't that supose to be something like 1009 ohms at room temp? Could that be the problem?
The only other thing I did yesterday was was to jumper around the hi temp bi-metal switch, because I was getting high resistance thru it (leads removed). What would you suggest next?
Thanks,



Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
T,

What was the original problem ?

Failure codes etc. ?

The "PF" code indicates a power failure.

You have 220 VAC at the outlet, but,

Do you have 220 VAC at the terminal block ?

Do you have 110 VAC from L1 to Neutral, and L2 to Neutral at the terminal block.

What about 110 VAC at the clock connector ?
(Clock Connector P4, pin#1(white) to pin#3(black)with the connector attached and insert your meter probes through the back(wire insertion side),and the clock display on, you should read line voltage(110 VAC).

With the repairs you've made, I would have to think, you've got a voltage or wiring problem at or to the ERC/clock, when voltage is applied to it(under a load).

Let us know what you find,Please ...

:confused: :confused: :confused:
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, December 14, 2010 8:40:08 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Originally Posted by: tleslie Go to Quoted Post
The original problem started while the oven & cook top were in operation. The touchpad showed a code breifly and then went to all 8/s. I did not record the code, but shut off the power to the unit and then turned back on. The stove came up with the "PF" and that is the way it has stayed
throughout all the attemps to repair.
Tonight I tested the voltage at the range connections. I got 119 V at both L1 to N, & L2 to N, & 239 V at L1 to L2. I am getting 119 v at the clock connections under load as you instructed,
FYI, I did check the resistance thru the oven thermostat. I got "0" ohms. I checked with the leads still connected as was suggested by the manual I was using. Isn't that supose to be something like 1009 ohms at room temp? Could that be the problem?
The only other thing I did yesterday was was to jumper around the hi temp bi-metal switch, because I was getting high resistance thru it (leads removed). What would you suggest next?
Thanks,



T,

Well,

Based on your resistance reading and the voltage readings you stated,

You have a bad oven Temp Sensor, You should read a resistance of 1050 to 1100 ohms across the wires at room temperature, you said you had 0 ohms .

Part number: AP4321511
Part number: AP4321511


I've never had a bad sensor cause a "PF" code, but it is a possibility.

Your voltage readings that you supplied, are in range and proper.

You may want to try this, to be positive there's no problem.

With 2 or 3, top burners, on re check your voltage at the terminal block of the range,

Check L1 to Neutral , then L2 to neutral, You may loose a volt or two, but there should not be a major voltage differrence.

Your thermal cut out is OK.

Otherwise, the only thing I see that you need is the oven temp sensor.

And check to make sure you've got the key pad ribbon installed properly at the clock connection.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)
tleslie  
#5 Posted : Thursday, December 16, 2010 11:43:51 AM(UTC)
tleslie

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/12/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

In my previous request, I mistakenly told you that my oven temperature sensor (part#W10131825) was reading a resistance of "0" ohms. Instead, what I actually tested was over temp sensor (Part #4451442). I am guessing that is suppose to be "0" ohms. Is that right? If so, I am back to square one, with a W10131825 part I probably don't need. Do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks,
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Thursday, December 16, 2010 1:48:13 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Originally Posted by: tleslie Go to Quoted Post
In my previous request, I mistakenly told you that my oven temperature sensor (part#W10131825) was reading a resistance of "0" ohms. Instead, what I actually tested was over temp sensor (Part #4451442). I am guessing that is suppose to be "0" ohms. Is that right? If so, I am back to square one, with a W10131825 part I probably don't need. Do you have any other suggestions?
Thanks,


T,

On your over temp sensor you should read infinite resistance(000) or CL on some digital meters.

Even so, that still should not cause a "PF" code, it will not allow the oven to heat.

You could try this,

Take both wires off the over temp sensor and attach them together, and insulate them so they can't short out, then program the clock and see if you can program a bake cycle.

At the same time, check the voltage at the clock power supply(per the previous post). the circuit in that clock can only handle a momentary 2 to 5 volt drop before it gives to "PF" code.

Let us know what you find, please, I'm running out of options and tests.

:) :) :)
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