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My igniter will not glow/heat. I have read that I should check for 120V to the igniter. I have 120V across the burner assembly, but only 28V across the igniter connector (when disconnected). Could ths still be a bad igniter or is something wrong with the valve coils?
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Originally Posted by: bahlemeyer  My igniter will not glow/heat. I have read that I should check for 120V to the igniter. I have 120V across the burner assembly, but only 28V across the igniter connector (when disconnected). Could ths still be a bad igniter or is something wrong with the valve coils? Bahlmeyer, You should have 120 VAC to the igniter, whenever the valve assembly is active(heat mode, or you have 120 VAC at the valve wires.). Sounds like you're correct, something is wrong with the valve coils, or wiring to the igniter(not likely). Part number: AP3094251
Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Bahlmeyer, You should have 120 VAC to the igniter, whenever the valve assembly is active(heat mode, or you have 120 VAC at the valve wires.). Sounds like you're correct, something is wrong with the valve coils, or wiring to the igniter(not likely). Part number: AP3094251
Good Luck, :) :) :) Joe, thanks for the reply. Since posting the question I was able to obtain a wiring diagram. It appears to me that if the flame sensor was stuck open, it would have a lower voltage across the igniter. I am going to take it out and have it tested tomorrow.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: bahlemeyer Joe, thanks for the reply. Since posting the question I was able to obtain a wiring diagram. It appears to me that if the flame sensor was stuck open, it would have a lower voltage across the igniter. I am going to take it out and have it tested tomorrow. Bahlemeyer, OK, I guess, I haven't run a cross that many bad radiant sensors, but it is a possibility, and your theory is on target. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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