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Using the Multimeter correctly to test lid switch? Options Email this topic Watch this topic Print this topic » Normal Threaded
Model: 110 20712 990	Brand: Kenmore	Age: More than 10 years
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brian_h		#1 Posted : Wednesday, October 27, 2010 5:33:55 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 10/27/2010(UTC) Posts: 1		Hello and thanks ahead of time. Going crazy with this one. Trying hard to be a DIY'r, learning as I go humbly. Kenmore washer fills and runs, but no agitation. Drains, but no spin. Makes squeaky, clicking noise. All I have researched says "coupler". I checked the motor coupler and it is fine. I bypassed the lid switch (wire connecting 2 outer 'prongs' of switch outlet) but washer still ran - same manner as above. Used a multimeter on the lid switch but got 0 for open and closed...confusing me as I thought that says 'bad' switch...but the bypass worked... Could it be that the switch is in fact broken, even though with the bypass the washer ran (incorrectly)? I may be doing something wrong with meter... So - what to check next - cam shaft? Trying to avoid buying a new LG Top Loader. Thanks again, Brian


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Joe / APP Team		#2 Posted : Thursday, October 28, 2010 2:32:02 PM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Moderators Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC) Posts: 5,222 Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)		Originally Posted by: brian_h Hello and thanks ahead of time. Going crazy with this one. Trying hard to be a DIY'r, learning as I go humbly. Kenmore washer fills and runs, but no agitation. Drains, but no spin. Makes squeaky, clicking noise. All I have researched says "coupler". I checked the motor coupler and it is fine. I bypassed the lid switch (wire connecting 2 outer 'prongs' of switch outlet) but washer still ran - same manner as above. Used a multimeter on the lid switch but got 0 for open and closed...confusing me as I thought that says 'bad' switch...but the bypass worked... Could it be that the switch is in fact broken, even though with the bypass the washer ran (incorrectly)? I may be doing something wrong with meter... So - what to check next - cam shaft? Trying to avoid buying a new LG Top Loader. Thanks again, Brian Brian, Sure sounds like a bad motor coupler ? Did you actually remove the pump and motor, and physically remove and check the coupler pins and rubber bushing for damage ? Based on the information, your lid switch is fine. You may have tested it incorrectly with the meter. Here's a post from our forum, that may help you understand better. http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html Good luck, :cool: :cool: :cool:


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