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brian_h  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, October 27, 2010 5:33:55 PM(UTC)
brian_h

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Joined: 10/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1

Hello and thanks ahead of time.

Going crazy with this one. Trying hard to be a DIY'r, learning as I go humbly.

Kenmore washer fills and runs, but no agitation. Drains, but no spin. Makes squeaky, clicking noise. All I have researched says "coupler".

I checked the motor coupler and it is fine. I bypassed the lid switch (wire connecting 2 outer 'prongs' of switch outlet) but washer still ran - same manner as above.

Used a multimeter on the lid switch but got 0 for open and closed...confusing me as I thought that says 'bad' switch...but the bypass worked...

Could it be that the switch is in fact broken, even though with the bypass the washer ran (incorrectly)? I may be doing something wrong with meter...

So - what to check next - cam shaft?

Trying to avoid buying a new LG Top Loader.

Thanks again,
Brian
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Thursday, October 28, 2010 2:32:02 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

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Originally Posted by: brian_h Go to Quoted Post
Hello and thanks ahead of time.

Going crazy with this one. Trying hard to be a DIY'r, learning as I go humbly.

Kenmore washer fills and runs, but no agitation. Drains, but no spin. Makes squeaky, clicking noise. All I have researched says "coupler".

I checked the motor coupler and it is fine. I bypassed the lid switch (wire connecting 2 outer 'prongs' of switch outlet) but washer still ran - same manner as above.

Used a multimeter on the lid switch but got 0 for open and closed...confusing me as I thought that says 'bad' switch...but the bypass worked...

Could it be that the switch is in fact broken, even though with the bypass the washer ran (incorrectly)? I may be doing something wrong with meter...

So - what to check next - cam shaft?

Trying to avoid buying a new LG Top Loader.

Thanks again,
Brian



Brian,

Sure sounds like a bad motor coupler ?

Did you actually remove the pump and motor, and physically remove and check the coupler pins and rubber bushing for damage ?

Based on the information, your lid switch is fine.

You may have tested it incorrectly with the meter.

Here's a post from our forum, that may help you understand better.

http://forum.appliancepartspros...continuity-ohmmeter.html

Good luck,
:cool: :cool: :cool:
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