Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
TemeculaDoug  
#1 Posted : Saturday, August 30, 2008 10:04:19 AM(UTC)
TemeculaDoug

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/30/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Hi all new here- had an issue where our oven just failed to get hot. Did a BUNCH of research, talked to techs and they all came to conclusion that igniter was bad. Bought igniter yestrday to the tune of $50, replaced this a.m. and same thing. oh yeah broiler works and ignites just fine.

Oven now goes to 159* (before it stopped at 100* on LCD)
and Im bummed and confused??!!

What next? Do I need a thermostat, a board?

This is going to get expesnive if I cant nail it down. I do have a ohmmeter if needed.

Do I need to leave the bottom of oven off to see if igniter is glowing or getting hot?

My wife wants to cook again,

thanks
Doug
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
abadfish66  
#2 Posted : Saturday, August 30, 2008 11:05:12 AM(UTC)
abadfish66

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620

Get your ohm meter, and check the resistance of the glowbar (ignitor) you just replaced. Should read between 50-150 ohms. Post results
TemeculaDoug  
#3 Posted : Saturday, August 30, 2008 12:39:02 PM(UTC)
TemeculaDoug

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/30/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

do I need the oven set to ON and where do I want to probe / check on the igniter? there arent really any connecters on it (just spliced new one in with the ceramic wire nuts)
UserPostedImage

PS >>the NEW igniter is a (pt # AR404 on the box) hopefully this is correct?

thanks,
Doug
abadfish66  
#4 Posted : Saturday, August 30, 2008 1:21:55 PM(UTC)
abadfish66

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620

Take off the wire nuts and disconnect the wires and take an ohm reading from the bare wire ends of the ignitor.
abadfish66  
#5 Posted : Saturday, August 30, 2008 1:24:58 PM(UTC)
abadfish66

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620

That part is fine, they only make 2 kinds round and square, so if you took out a round ignitor, you replace it with a round ignitor.
TemeculaDoug  
#6 Posted : Saturday, August 30, 2008 1:56:33 PM(UTC)
TemeculaDoug

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/30/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

10-4 let me give u an update soon on the vlt readings

I was going to swap the known good broiler igniter(same) except there is ALOT more dismantling to do so I said scr**w it.
abadfish66  
#7 Posted : Saturday, August 30, 2008 2:06:44 PM(UTC)
abadfish66

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620

ok, make sure it's an ohm reading and not a volt reading :)
TemeculaDoug  
#8 Posted : Monday, September 1, 2008 8:33:58 AM(UTC)
TemeculaDoug

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/30/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

after checking further with the lower drawer pulled out, I found that the other wire conected to the gas valve (from the old connecteion at the igniter) had a tear in the sheath and caused it to short. After re-soldering and heatshrink, the oven fired right up. Apparently it had rubbed on the rearsheetmetal and torn the shething of the wire.


thanks for all the help abadfish66...
abadfish66  
#9 Posted : Monday, September 1, 2008 8:35:07 AM(UTC)
abadfish66

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 5/28/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,620

no problem.
Users browsing this topic
Guest (3)
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.