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JAH  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, June 29, 2010 12:54:12 PM(UTC)
JAH

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I noticed my refrigerator was decreasing in temperature gradually and then my freezer started warming up too. I shut down my refrigerator and defrosted it completely after noticing a solid build up of ice on the freezer coils. I've turned the refrigertor back on and the same thing is occuring 4 weeks later.

Any ideas?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, June 30, 2010 11:49:20 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for JENN-AIR JCD2389DES Ref - SXS/I&W | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a service manual
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16010154.pdf
See Page 2-15 on how to force a defrost cycle.
You have an adaptive defrost board, Item 13 in Section 2 of the parts.

First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.

If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle, the fans and compressor will turn off.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the board needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.

If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.

If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 240Kohms ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.

If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer is toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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