Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER5636PQ0 29"electric Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%208528187.pdfNote: I do not work for AppliancePartsPros so if the below advice is no good blame me not them.
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Installed new heating element and was still blowing cold air. [/COLOR]
How did you know that the heater was blown? Did you measure it with a meter? Was the heating coil broken? Or did you just think that it was the most likely cause?
[COLOR="Blue"]Stopped to look for info on manuels for whirpool dryer on different sites. No luck.[/COLOR]
Could not find a manual but did get the wiring diagram.
[COLOR="Blue"]I then went back to work on dryer and now dryer wont even start.[/COLOR]
You must have messed something up or forgot to reconnect something. The most likely would be the door switch.
You will notice that the motor and the heater circuits are pretty well separate in the unit.
The heater runs on 240 (L1 to L2)
The motor runs on 120 (L1 to Neutral)
[COLOR="Blue"]Was told by a friend that needed to reset relay. read that you couldnt reset.[/COLOR]
I have no idea what your friend was referring to, never heard of a reset relay on a dryer.
[COLOR="Blue"]Please tell me how to get dryer working properly after install of new heating element purchased by your company please.[/COLOR]
You will have to do some trouble shooting a meter will be very helpful here.
First check that the unit is getting the correct power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
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Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
