Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

30 Pages«<910111213>»
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
cece  
#101 Posted : Monday, February 9, 2009 7:55:54 PM(UTC)
cece

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/9/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

Originally Posted by: abadfish66 Go to Quoted Post
They are call takers and run off a script. They don't have the info that we techs have. You wont be on the hook if it's covered, either it is or it isn't and you can go from there. If you get me the info I need, I'll be more than happy to let you know.


Would u plez look up my clicking GE fridge Numbers for board replacement
Model GSH25KGREWW
Serial MG217636

CECE:cool:
bkiessig  
#102 Posted : Monday, March 2, 2009 10:44:19 AM(UTC)
bkiessig

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/2/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

i have a 4 year old side by side ge refrigerator that is clicking also.
model #gsl25ifrfbs
serial #lh210805.

would this be covered under warranty?
MrWilson-619  
#103 Posted : Wednesday, April 15, 2009 4:42:54 PM(UTC)
MrWilson-619

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 4/15/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

Is this covered under warranty?

PFS22SISBS
Serial# GLO45682
Gene  
#104 Posted : Wednesday, April 15, 2009 8:21:20 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
Originally Posted by: MrWilson-619 Go to Quoted Post
Is this covered under warranty?

PFS22SISBS
Serial# GLO45682


Call GE at 1-800-626-2224 or 1-800-626-2005

Gene.
boogiethecat  
#105 Posted : Thursday, May 7, 2009 10:09:20 AM(UTC)
boogiethecat

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

Like Dokken, I'm also a stubborn cuss and my GE fridge has been doing the same things... condenser fan running slowly or not at all, compressor running 24/7 for the last week (happy power bill anyone?), temperature reads all over the map (as in fridge reads 49 degrees; unplug fridge for 1 minute and plug it back in, now display reads 37 degrees...who knows what it really is)

So because I'm also an electronic design engineer, I took the geek route which I don't expect many of you will follow, but I wrote it up here so at least some of you can appreciate occasionally not eating what the mighty corporations tell us we must...

First, the freezer drawer of this thing has always annoyed me. You open it, all the frozen air falls out on your feet. How can that be efficient?
Second, everything in the freezer gets made into a pile and you can never find anything without tossing and turning the whole freezer. Totally annoying.

Anyways... first I physically cut the old condenser fan out and replaced it with a 110 volt 4" muffin fan from a surplus store, wired directly to the compressor. That's the end of the stupid motherboard and expensive fan problem although when I tested the original fan it was ok, So it's a bad motherboard. That fixed the 24/7 compressor running. But the fridge was still on the blink temperature-wise as obviously the motherboard has some problems. So I got an Omega C9000a thermocouple-temperature controller from the eebayyy place and wired it and a solid state relay to control the compressor, totally bypassing the refrigerator's control of the compressor.

That fixed the temperature problems in the fridge, but next I found that the motorized damper that shuttles cold air to the fridge (also controlled by the motherboard) was staying shut. The result was that the I couldn't get a good balance between the freezer and the fridge, because that balance is controlled by the motherboard.

As of yesterday I'd had it. I REFUSE to pay some repair guy mega- hundred bucks to replace a board that will probably fail again, and I havn't found the exact board online. And I don't want to drive my tractor over this fridge and get a new one, although it sounds like a deliciously tempting idea....
So today I changed the whole game. I talked my wife into swappping our spare fridge in the other room for an upright freezer, and letting me modify this fridge so the freezer compartment would become a refrigerated compartment for the lettuce and veggies instead of a freezer. She said ok.

Here's what I have done:

The compressor is now controlled solely by the Omron temperature controller, and the motherboard has been unhooked from it entirely.
The condenser fan is a120 volt muffin fan that is hooked across the compressor circuit.
The internal fan (that blows cold air around) is now hooked to a little 12 volt power supply that is also hooked to the compressor. So when the Omron tells the compressor to turn on, both fans come on at the same time.
BTW the Omron uses a thermocouple to sense temperature... I drilled a little 1/8" hole thru the back of the fridge into the insides and threaded the thermocouple wire thru it, and siliconed the thermocouple to one of the mid-height shelf brackets. This way it has some thermal inertia attached to it and the act of opening the door won't make the compressor come on immediately, as it would have if the thermocouple was hanging in mid-air.

To convert the freezer to a refrigerator space, I first unplugged the damper motor and stuck it in the open position. Then I plugged two of the three holes in the freezer compartment that air comes out of when the fan's on, thus forcing most of the cold air up into the fridge section. Then I hole-sawed a 3" air-return hole thru the roof of the freezer up to underneath the left hand drawer, so now there's a good flow of cold air from the fan into the fridge, back down into the freezer compartment thru my new hole, and around again.

The last bug might have been the defroster, because it's also controlled by the nasty motheroard, so I unhooked it too, got a motorized defrost timer from the local appliance parts store, and hooked it up.

As of today, the entire machine is controlled by the Omron and the defrost timer, and due to the changes I made the freezer and fridge sections now stay at exactly the same temperature. Bad-old motherboard still runs the temperature displays and makes the fridge go beep beep when you leave the doors open, but that's about all.

So now we have a gigantic happy fridge-only, and a separate upright freezer in the other room (omygosh with SHELVES), and I serioulsly doubt I'll ever have another problem with GE's poorly designed electronics!!
Wheeeee
markiee43  
#106 Posted : Friday, May 29, 2009 2:43:45 PM(UTC)
markiee43

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 13

gene could you tell me what makes the ice delivery system push ice out the front door i have water ther but no ice. the ice maker makes ice normal and water works great but the ice bucket twister inside wont turn to make ice come out front door checked motor works good checked magneted pick up soleniod works great what iam i missing please help banging my head againest the wall ............//////////
JERRYW  
#107 Posted : Thursday, June 11, 2009 12:17:08 AM(UTC)
JERRYW

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/10/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

GE PFS22SBSBSS s/n TH048979.
Within the 1st two years, the display was intermittent, mostly OFF, now i'm hearing the relay clicking and the box doesn't appear to be cooling.
I have the WKKT Model 0158-04-03 board GEA P/N 200D4860G015.

From the Forums comments it sounds like it may be replaced for free but not sure if i'll be stuck with a expensive service call from GE.
Would it be cheaper to buy the part and install myself?

It seems the board has been a chronic problem for a lot of people- I just want a refrig. that works (it should last 15-20 years for what it cost), but if that many people are having problems maybe the government should be involved and force a Totally Free RECALL for the consumer.
Thanks JERRYW
sis2000  
#108 Posted : Thursday, June 11, 2009 3:28:48 PM(UTC)
sis2000

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/11/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

I also had a clicking noise on my 2.5 year old GE Profile fridge that was coming from the mother board panel. It was coming on and off lately until it came on and stayed on, and the fridge just stopped working. The replacement panel costs about $135 at Sears, but I managed to fix it for $2.79 myself.
What I noticed was a blown capacitor buldging next to the relay, so I just went to the RadioShack and replaced it (and the identical one next to it) on the mother board. All you need is a soldering iron (which you can also get at the RadioShack for about $10). The original capacitor was for 470mF/25V, but the RadioShack had only 470mF/35V ones. I tried them out and it worked for me.

For a $2K refrigerator to break down like this in 2.5 years really stinks. I doubt I'll buy more appliances from GE.
hatchhome  
#109 Posted : Saturday, August 1, 2009 1:28:00 PM(UTC)
hatchhome

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/1/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

Originally Posted by: sis2000 Go to Quoted Post
I also had a clicking noise on my 2.5 year old GE Profile fridge that was coming from the mother board panel. It was coming on and off lately until it came on and stayed on, and the fridge just stopped working. The replacement panel costs about $135 at Sears, but I managed to fix it for $2.79 myself.
What I noticed was a blown capacitor buldging next to the relay, so I just went to the RadioShack and replaced it (and the identical one next to it) on the mother board. All you need is a soldering iron (which you can also get at the RadioShack for about $10). The original capacitor was for 470mF/25V, but the RadioShack had only 470mF/35V ones. I tried them out and it worked for me.

For a $2K refrigerator to break down like this in 2.5 years really stinks. I doubt I'll buy more appliances from GE.


This user saved me so much time and money, it was exactly the problem with my refrig, no service call needed, I spent 10 on iron and parts. I have never done anything like this so u need not be a pro or know much about capacitor ( i didnt even know what one was). take your time and it will work perfect. Thanks so much
MacMolMag  
#110 Posted : Wednesday, August 5, 2009 7:59:30 AM(UTC)
MacMolMag

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/4/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3

My Refrigerator has the same problem. Clicking noise every 5 seconds from the control board. I called GE Customer Relations (1-800-386-1215). They told me that my unit (Model GBS22KBSAWW Ser ZHO49968) was covered under the Board Replacement Policy (and for free). They said that the technician would be out tommorow between 8-5 (sure wish I could do that with my clients) and that if the board was not the problem all I would have to pay for was the parts. I asked if they could come out today as the temp here is in the high 90's. No can do, but she gave me the telephone number (1-888-456-7445) for GE Insurance so I can make a claim for any food that is spoiled.

I also told them that the people in Scheduling and Service should have the ability to see if a particular model/serial is under the Replacement Policy.
Users browsing this topic
Guest (2)
30 Pages«<910111213>»
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.