After years of flawless service, my Whirlpool washer will no longer agitate or spin. (It does fill and the timer sounds like it is ticking along). Unlike other posts about this, I can see that the washer is actually trying to spin, making a loud buzzing noise as if the motor were under heavy load, and moving the tub a few inches. But after a minute of trying, it would quit (I think a thermal switch kicked in).

At that point, if I waited two or three minutes, I could try to start the spin/agitation again. The first day, this would work and the washer would engage, agitate or spin and complete the cycle. The second day, it quit this completely. It would just buzz then quit trying.

I opened the washer and first found the coupler was bad. I replaced that (wow! what a marvel this machine is to work on!). Unfortunately, once I put everything back together it still didn't fix the problem.

There's no smell and the tub spins freely by hand. (I also tried "helping" to try and keep the spin going by pulling on the tub once it started moving on its own, but no go.) I don't suspect the motor since it was working fine for that little bit when I kick-started the spin cycle. However, I am thinking of:

1. Pulling the motor and try running it separate using a jumper on the lid switch and moving the timer to spin to confirm the motor works.

2. Using a screw driver to turn the pump to make sure it isn't jammed.

I see other possibilities: a bad brake, bad clutch, or a broken part in the transmission. Maybe a bad solenoid or timer. But I am thinking that a bad brake or clutch wouldn't let the tub begin to spin at all, would it? As a novice, tackling the tranny would be the last thing I'd like to do, so I want to eliminate the "easy" problems first if I can.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Dave D

To remove the tranny, I undo the three bolts on it, plus the one hidden inside the agitator--correct?

What should I watch for as I lower the tranny out of the washer--alignments, springs, broken pieces??

I'll assume that with the tranny out, it should turn freely from the coupler side and from the shaft, correct?

If I have this apart, should I put in both the clutch kit and a new brake pad? Or should I wait to see what is broken?

Dave D.

Okay. I have removed the tranny. I found:

1. The water pump moves relatively freely when I use a screwdriver to move the impeller back and forth.
2. With the tranny still installed, I found the coupler moves freely when turned clockwise. The silver clutch part does not move.
3. When I removed the tranny and rotate the coupler on the input shaft, I found that a) the agitator shaft moves freely (although much slower than the silver clutch case) and b) the silver clutch case rotates freely (and much faster than the shaft).
4. There is no debris inside the clutch housing.
5. The white plastic finger on the clutch (the brake release?) appears fine and unbroken.

At this point, how do I check the brake?

Dave D.

Should I turn the coupler clockwise or counter-clockwise (looking at it from the motor end) to engage the spin basket?

Dave D.

Transmission tested okay. I then retried the motor (on its own) and found a dead spot in it. It would turn fine for about 3/4s of the way around, but there was this bad spot, so I got a new (used) motor.

Next problem: after reassembling everything, there's absolutely no response now from the motor or the washer other than a very low hum I think from the timer.

My first guess is to retest the motor off the machine to ensure it's still working. Other ideas?

Thanks!

Dave D.