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Replacement parts for Kenmore 11067522600 | AppliancePartsPros.com

If the unit was in an auto cycle switch to a timed dry cycle to see if it now advances.
In timed dry the unit gets power directly from the line.
In auto the timer gets power through the heating coil when the coil is off so if the heater blows the timer will not advance.

So if it does advance in timed dry it could be that just the heating coil is shot. Unplug the unit and one wire at the heating coil and measure it with a meter, should be 8 to 13 ohms.

If it does not advance in timed dry could be that you have a power problem as both the timer motor and heater run off of the 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

Here is a post that includes a wiring diagram of this unit
http://forum.appliancepartspros...l?highlight=110.67522600

Yes it does sound like a timer problem.

Strange that you have no timer advance and no heat in timed dry but could be that the timer has multiple problems.

Set the unit to where it has the problem in timed dry and then shut it off.
Check the TM/WB contacts on the timer.
Check TIMER SWITCH 2 timer contacts R/BK.
If both are open then you have confirmed that it is the timer.

Also with one meter lead on WB and the other on BK you should see approximately 10 ohms (heater). If you then put the WB meter lead to OR you should see 0 ohms. This is with everything connected.

Sounds like you already own a meter but if you were using a voltage checker then I would purchase a multi-meter. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.