I would first check to see if the heating element is cycling on and off. If the relay switch is stuck closed it will cause the heating element to stay on and overheat, blowing out the fuse. I would try running the unit and testing the exhaust heat. You can do this by using a meat thermometer. Poke the probe into the transition hose (slinky tube) about four to six inches from the back of the dryer exhaust. Position it so that you can read the temperature while the unit is running. Now turn on the dryer to normal setting (assuming the fuse is good) and watch the temperature. It should read up to 160f - 175f degrees and then should cool down to 125f - 140f degrees before cycling back up.
If it begins to keep climbing above 180f it will soon blow out the thermal fuse. Shut down the dryer and I suspect the relay on the main control board might be stuck in the on position. It may also be a shorted heating element causing the heat to stay on but the relay would be my first guess.

Typically if it isn't working properly the board will need replaced.

Hi...Ran an Air just cycle and it ran hot. Checked resistance on the principle control board between P14-3 and P14-6 and had 7k - 8k resistance. As indicated by the tech manual between 5k - 15k it says the control board and over 20k methods the Thermistor. Checked the Thermistor and had 10.4k @ surrounding temp of 76°. Checked the Thermal cut off and had progression between the leads. Additionally checked the component for a short to ground and had no progression. I believe it's guiding me toward the primary control board, yet need to ensure I check everything before I burn through $200 on another board. Any proposals?

order pcb

Edited by user Friday, March 19, 2021 1:35:34 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified