Kenneth,
You series 15 struts will look just like mine. That machine was an internet buy for $.99 plus $25 for gas an tolls. Failing in Spin Cycle like yours. Clean up of the One-Way Roller Clutches with WD-40 and re-lube with Slick 50 One Lube and it was back in service. Total cost to repair maybe $10. I hope you can get away with a Clutch maintenance clean up. I think you will. Your series 15 machine may not use the upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring. You will see some pics below.

As I said it’s a tight work area but you do not need to remove the wash tub to remove the clutch. You can inspect the front struts when you pull the front cover off. With the front cover off you can press them down and they should and I feel will return to level position.

Tell ya what don’t remove the cover just yet. Walk over to your FAV9800A open the lid and press the left front tub down by the bleach dispenser as far as you can and release. Did the wash tub return to level setting? Do the same for right front side? Did the wash tub return to level setting? If so your struts are OK but you can do the compression checks of the struts with the front cover off and see that they return to level non sagging set point.

I feel the best way to work on the machine is lay it down on it’s back with a 4X4 (if ya don’t have a bike lift) just below where the drain line exits the machine. Have some bath towels around for any water that main drain out. With your clutch malfunction I read where you ran a Quick Spin cycle with no clothes and the cycle completed.

That's because the slipping One-Way roller clutches that allowed the tumblers to rotate while spinning up had no clothes in the wash basket to shift off balance and the spin cycle completed… no dC or uC error code. If you think you have excess water in the machine go to page 16 of the SM and enter Service Mode then go into Board Output Test and turn on the Drain Pump until you feel the wash tub is as empty as it will get.

Here ya go;

Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.

With a 5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the Service Manual remove the front panel.

Tools required;
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM

1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.

5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel.

1. Lean the washer back and blocked up in that position against a wall for a better reach angle or on the floor as discribed above. Remove the 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt. That bolt is standard thread. Or lay the machine down on the back panel as described above.

2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.

3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. If either clutch spring retaining end is broken off then the clutch must be replaced. Inspect Roller Clutch bearings and clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with Slick 50 One Lube. Some machine series use an Upper Roller Clutch bearing and always a lower clutch pulley Roller Clutch bearing. My series 16 machine doesn’t use the Upper Roller Clutch one way bearing. These bearings are one way rotation bearings in the Clockwise direction. Make sure the Spinner Shaft Coupler will rotate freely in the CW direction in both Roller Clutch bearings. If the Roller Clutch bearings or Spinner Shaft Coupler will not clean up with WD-40 I recommend a clutch replacement.

4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in the clutch hub.

5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.

6. Reinstalling the Clutch Pulley assembly is the most difficult part of the process. With a tight work area try a test fitment of seating (if used) the Upper Roller Clutch bearing with the notches into the bottom of the wash tub. Then insert the Spinner Shaft Coupler into that bearing rotating CW to reseat the coupler notches to the spinner shaft. Then the clutch pulley to the squared end agitator shaft. Rock back and forth the clutch pulley assembly with upward lifting pressure to reseat the clutch assembly. When the clutch assembly is properly seated you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).

7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.

8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.

I'm new to the board and not sure how to comment out my pics so 1st pic is of the Clutch Pulley exploded view (crude).

Next pics are of Clutch Pulley opend up before clean up.

I hope you have success post back with any questions. Take your time you can do this.....Rich

Good to see some folks can still breath a little life back into the machine. My s/n 14 still running way past it's design service life with full Outer Tub rebuild......wife is tired of looking at these machines since 2005. s/n 17 in the basement as back up.....wife says no way!