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Amana Gas Range turns off unpredictably
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Model: ARGS7650E Brand: Amana Age: More than 10 years
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Joe / APP Team  
#31 Posted : Thursday, November 21, 2013 5:57:48 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: supramantt Go to Quoted Post
I have tested the fan, it works flawlessly. I think the reason i thought it did not work was because it is so silent. Anyways, i have tested multiple outlets and still nothing. I have disassembled the control unit and i thought i found a faulty relay, but i just remove the relay and opened it. I dont think there is anything wrong with it. There was gunk leaking from the bottom of the relay and i thought that was strange because relays dont usually have gunk inside. Anyways, everything looked normal when i opened the relay. I am totally baffled. Can you think of anything else that might cause the system to not power up?


Supramantt, At this point, the only thing left is voltage. or that's where we need to start over at. At the back of the control/erc, check from the J5 pin 4(black/white wire) across to the J4 pin 10(white wire) and you should read 120 VAC with the power cord plugged into the outlet. Then check from J4 pin 8(black wire) across to J4 pin 10 (white wire) If the voltages are present, then the control/erc is faulty. If the voltages aren't present, you will need to trace the wiring and components back to the power cord terminals until you find the voltage and repair or replace the wire or faulty component. You need to be careful conducting these "live" voltage tests, you could hurt yourself if you touch or ground yourself to the chassis.
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supramantt  
#32 Posted : Friday, November 22, 2013 2:37:02 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Supramantt, At this point, the only thing left is voltage. or that's where we need to start over at. At the back of the control/erc, check from the J5 pin 4(black/white wire) across to the J4 pin 10(white wire) and you should read 120 VAC with the power cord plugged into the outlet. Then check from J4 pin 8(black wire) across to J4 pin 10 (white wire) If the voltages are present, then the control/erc is faulty. If the voltages aren't present, you will need to trace the wiring and components back to the power cord terminals until you find the voltage and repair or replace the wire or faulty component. You need to be careful conducting these "live" voltage tests, you could hurt yourself if you touch or ground yourself to the chassis.

Ok, i have shipped off the unit. I tested both sets of pins and they both had 124.4V. So i do not believe there is a problem with the wiring.
Thanks again.
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Joe / APP Team  
#33 Posted : Monday, November 25, 2013 5:13:20 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: supramantt Go to Quoted Post
Ok, i have shipped off the unit. I tested both sets of pins and they both had 124.4V. So i do not believe there is a problem with the wiring.
Thanks again.


Supramantt, Correct, if both tests had the correct voltage(s) and the display is not illuminated, then yes, the issue is in the ERC/Clock. You should be up and running soon.
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supramantt  
#34 Posted : Monday, November 25, 2013 8:12:20 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Supramantt, Correct, if both tests had the correct voltage(s) and the display is not illuminated, then yes, the issue is in the ERC/Clock. You should be up and running soon.

Thanks for the assistance. It is a huge bummer these are not more reliable. This unit has already been replaced multiple times. It clearly says remanufactured. Luckily i found a shop that gives a 2 year warranty to repair it and it was 160 with return shipping. One of the best deals i could find. Everyone else was 210 with a 6 month warranty.
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Joe / APP Team  
#35 Posted : Monday, November 25, 2013 8:18:19 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: supramantt Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for the assistance. It is a huge bummer these are not more reliable. This unit has already been replaced multiple times. It clearly says remanufactured. Luckily i found a shop that gives a 2 year warranty to repair it and it was 160 with return shipping. One of the best deals i could find. Everyone else was 210 with a 6 month warranty.


Supramantt,
Sounds like you did very well, especially the two year warranty on workmanship. and the price is pretty much in range for an ERC / Clock for that style and brand range.
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onyx  
#36 Posted : Friday, December 6, 2013 10:55:45 PM(UTC)
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Is there much difference in the parts i need to fix my stove with the P number being P1130766NE?

Thanks
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Joe / APP Team  
#37 Posted : Monday, December 9, 2013 8:24:42 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: onyx Go to Quoted Post
Is there much difference in the parts i need to fix my stove with the P number being P1130766NE?

Thanks


Onyx, No, there's not much of a difference in the parts you may need, in fact they are the same in both ranges. Once you test and determine where or what the issue is you will be able to use the listed parts in the previous post to order any part needed. You can also use the other information attached to the posts for testing resistance circuits and wiring locations,etc.
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pochejp  
#38 Posted : Tuesday, January 7, 2014 11:53:35 AM(UTC)
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Joe my unit has the same issues as some in this thread. However my ERC flashed F3 or F4 I don't rememeber. It would also flash error once in a while. Anyways do you have a pdf of the service manual you could post? I have the tech manual printed out you posted on this thread so I can follow the schematics. Recently the ERC control unit has fallen down behind the keypad. Have you seen this kind of issue? Broken screws maybe? Is the cooktop removed by only removing the burner screws and lifting up and out? Will the ERC be reachable from there once the top is off?

Thanks,

Jason
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Joe / APP Team  
#39 Posted : Tuesday, January 7, 2014 1:33:32 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: pochejp Go to Quoted Post
Joe my unit has the same issues as some in this thread. However my ERC flashed F3 or F4 I don't rememeber. It would also flash error once in a while. Anyways do you have a pdf of the service manual you could post? I have the tech manual printed out you posted on this thread so I can follow the schematics. Recently the ERC control unit has fallen down behind the keypad. Have you seen this kind of issue? Broken screws maybe? Is the cooktop removed by only removing the burner screws and lifting up and out? Will the ERC be reachable from there once the top is off?

Thanks,

Jason


Jason,

The F3 and F4 error codes indicate an issue with the oven temp. sensor

Part number: AP4282440
Part number: AP4282440


or the wiring between the sensor and the ERC

Part number: AP4041311
Part number: AP4041311


Under the circumstances it's probably the ERC. Here is the information you'll need to remove the cooktop and access the ERC to check it's mounting tabs and screws.
Maintop Removal–Slide-In
1. Turn off electrical power and gas to the range.
2. Disconnect gas and power from unit.
3. Remove screws securing top surface burners.
4. Remove surface burner and disconnect spark ignitor wire from surface burner.
5. Raise and remove maintop from unit.

Control Panel Disassembly–Slide-In
1. Turn off electrical power and gas to the range.
2. See “Maintop Removal–Slide-In” for removal.
3. Carefully pull surface burner knobs outward to remove.
4. Remove screws located on front of control panel.
5. Remove screws securing end caps to unit.
6. Remove screws securing control panel to unit.
7. Pull control panel forward and tilt downward.
8. Remove screws securing ERC to control panel.
9. Depress side locking arms, push forward on oven light switch, and disconnect wire terminals from switch.
10.Replace and reassemble in reverse order.

ERC–Slide-In
1. Remove control panel, see “Control Panel Removal–
Slide-In” procedure, (steps 1-6).
2. Remove screws securing ERC to control panel.
3. Disconnect wires from ERC.
4. Replace and reassemble in reverse order.

The service manual for your range is a bit too large to post here on the Forum. The attached information has been extracted from the manual and posted to help you out.
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cradradc  
#40 Posted : Saturday, October 15, 2016 1:36:35 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
James,

The fan limit switch controls the power to the cooling fan.

The control limit switch,(oven limit), of course is power to the control.

They are both temperature sensitive,

The fan limit closes and sends voltage to the cooling fan, when the temperature reaches a certain temp.in the burner box area, to cool the controls.

The control limit opens when it is too hot and turns off power to the control board and things go blank and inoperative.

You could test the cooling fan by jumping out the fan limit and see if the fan runs at the proper speed.

Or attach 120 VAC directly to motor and check it's operation.

I used to replace both limits at the same time, as long as the fan checked OK.


I'm sending the tech sheet for your unit, and you should be able to handle it from there.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)

anyone know where these parts can be found in 2016? i have the same issue and need all 3...

Thanks
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