Hey brobriffin.

Okay, after checking everything you asked me to check, here is what I found. On the heater can side, the item you listed as 1, the heater element is bad. Just to be sure, the heating element is a white rectangular box with two connections, correct? The box itself looks somewhat charred. I'm hoping when I replaced the hi limit thermostat and the hi limit thermal cutoff, that I made the proper connections. To be certain, I'm going to explain where each of the connections are connected to.

The charred end of the heating element is connected to one of the connectors on the hi limit thermostat. The other end of the heating element is connected to a red wire that that goes through the opening on the bottom back of the dryer.

Although the high limit thermostat tested OK, the remaining red wire that connects to it broke off. This broken wire is red and connects to the top connector on the cycling thermostat. There was a green crust on about 3/4 inches of the wire from where it broke from the connector.

Everything else tests good. I sure hope I didn't screw anything up. When I replaced those items, the dryer worked fine. The only thing that stopped working was the timer, but I wasn't too concerned about that. Should I have been? It was working before, the dryer stopped heating the first time. If you text me your number, I can take a picture of the heating can. My number is 609 431-3539

Thanks.

I was looking at the repair video that dealt with changing the thermal fuse. In the video, the package of parts also included a newer version of the hi limit thermostat. It didn't have the connector arm that connected to the left connector on the heating element. It talks about cutting an orange wire and crimping a brass two part terminal on. The red wire connector that came in the package had to have one end cut and a silver terminal was crimped. The orange wire was then connected to the bottom connector on the thermostat, with the silver end of the red wire connected to it as well. The other end of that red wire was then connected to the left side of the heating element.

The hi limit thermostat that I have that tested good is the older type. It has that arm at the bottom that directly connected to the left side of the heating element. Then there is a red wire that goes from the cycling thermostat to the top of the hi limit thermostat. The other red wire goes from the centrifugal switch to the right connection on the heating element.

Reason why I'm going into this detail is that the video identified a total of three wires, 2 red and one orange. My dryer only has the two red wires and no orange one. I'm assuming that's because of the newer type of hi limit thermostat. Am I correct in assuming that since I have the older type hi limit thermostat, that the arm on the thermostat goes into the left side of the heating element with the red wire from the centrifugal switch connecting to the right side, and the red wire from the cycling thermostat to the top connection on the hi limit thermostat?

As far as the broken wire, I just twisted the exposed wires and crimped them to a silver terminal (which I found in my basement). I checked that the terminal fit on the top connection on the hi limit thermostat. I'm going to purchase the heating element tomorrow. I'm hoping that should do the trick. I'll get back to you either way. Thank you for your help and patience.

Thanks. Just ordered the part from this website. Turns out that not only is this an excellent site for the professional help and guidance, but their prices are far cheaper than the quotes I received from several local sources. Should arrive Thursday or Friday. I'll let you know how it went.

Mr. S,
Sorry to hear your having problems. Please try to run a continuity test on the heating element alone. In other words unplug the two connected terminals and test just the element itself with nothing attached.
We will address the issue of terminal ends after we determine if the element is good or not.
You may choose to uninstall the heating element then test it while looking at the element. If you get no continuity you can inspect it to see if it is broken somewhere.
Get back to me with your results.

Based on that can you see any obvious breaks in the element?
Test also the wires you repaired to make sure they have continuity.
I'm not to confident about your style tester, it may not work on this element due to the amount of resistance through it. If there are no obvious breaks in the element the issue may be somewhere else.
Any chance you could post some pictures of what you have?
1. the wiring
2. the heating element
3. the back side showing the thermostats
You can post pics by clicking on "Go Advanced" next to the post quick reply.
Then scroll down to the Attach files and click on manage attachments.