Hi.

This site was instrumental in helping me to get my Whirlpool dryer heating again. I wound up replacing the hi limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Since I had the dryer apart, I also replaced the drum belt and the drum gasket. Cleaned it out well and voila, the dryer heated perfectly.

The only thing that did not work after putting everything back together was the timer, which honestly wasn't a big deal at all. That was about 6 months ago, and now the dryer isn't heating again. Is it possible the parts I replaced went bad, or could it be the heating element?

I spent almost $60.00 on the last repair, and even though that's probably more than the dryer is worth, it's in very clean, excellent condition, so I wouldn't mind having to spend an additional fifty bucks or so to get it heating again. Thanks.

Thanks for your reply brobriffin.

When I did the last repair I purchased a new vent hose. There is sufficient room so as to not cause any kinks or bends. I have never done a continuity test, so if you wouldn't mind, could you walk me through it like I was a ten year old.Lol.

Don't get me wrong, I am confident in my ability to be able to fix this. It's just that when I am in uncharted waters, I want to be precisely sure I am doing everything properly, and following suggestions and procedures. I guess my first move would be to purchase a continuity tester. How much does an entry level tester sufficient to get a proper reading, cost?

Thank you,
spelding

The dryer is located in a small laundry closet virtually against the exterior wall. As a result, the new ducting stretches about 2 get, from the back of the dryer to the connection on the exterior wall. The duct is metal ( think big metal slinky) and was recommended to use.

I actually went out today and purchased a dryer from Craigslist for 30.00 Although the ad said electric dryer, when I went to pick it up it had a gas connection and a 110 volt 3- prong plug. Trouble, I have a 220 volt outlet. What I'm looking for now I'd an adapter that I can plug the 110 volt plug into, with the other end a make sure 20 volt plug. That should work, correct. Reason I ask is that the dryer starts, the drum spins, but no heat. I assumed the gas connection provided the heat, while the 110 v provided the power to run the motor.

Don't seem to be having much luck with dryers lately. First, my dryer quite, then a friend of my niece gave us a dryer which didn't turn on at all, and now this.

Thinking about going back to the old standby; the clothesline!!! (Lol)

Sorry but you can not convert a gas dryer into a 220 electric heat dryer. IMPOSSIBLE! I can help but please do not attempt to plug a 110 machine into a 220 outlet.
Again the problem with your dryer is likely easy and cheap to repair. However it doesn't sound as if you have much experience with electronics. Please get a multimeter to locate the problem with your machine.
Try to sell that gas dryer it will do you no good.

Good for you! We all can gain experience when we DIY. The continuity tester is exactly what we need....

Ok Lets do some testing. First please unplug your dryer from the 220/240v outlet and move it out to where you can access the back.
Next you will need to remove the back cover consisting of 9 screws using a 1/4 inch nut driver. One of those screws hold the terminal block (incoming power) cover. After removing the back cover you will see two different sides. One is the heater can, it's on the right as you look at it from behind. The other side is the exhaust. On the heater side you will find three things that need to be checked.
1. The heating element, which will be the bottom most two connections. Place your continuity tester on one connection and the alligator clip on the other. This should have a positive result. If not the heating element is bad.
2. The high limit thermostat, which is just above the heating element. Check for continuity across its two terminals. Again with a positive result it is good.
3. There is a high limit thermal cutoff toward the top of the heating can. It is smaller in diameter than the thermostat you just checked. Check for continuity across its two terminals. Again with a positive result it is good.

Now if they are all good then we switch over to the exhaust side. Here you will see two items. We need to check both of these as well.
1. Thermal fuse, which is the white plastic looking thing rectangular shaped. Test for continuity across it's terminals. I Believe you will find it is good or else the unit would not start up at all.
2. Cycling thermostat, This will be a four pronged thermostat with two large red wires and two smaller wires. We will only check for continuity across the two larger terminals with the red wires. If you get a positive result then it is ok.

Perform all of these checks and give us your findings.