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Ran all motor control tests as well as all the control board tests. Everything tested good. After some more research, I found that the system will not allow more than 500 RPM (and 480 is less than 500) if it finds an out of balance condition. I tested the voltages at the displacement sensor and although within range they were really jumping around. I reperformed the displacement test a bunch of times. Sometimes, at the middle position it showed UO when the "delicates" button was pushed rather than UC.
Nudging the tub around would sometimes display a UC, but mostly UO. I think I have found the culprit. This would also explain why sometimes it would ramp up to full speed and other times not. I am ordering a new sensor today.
Paul
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So the good news. The tub displacement sensor fixed the issue with being unable to get up to maximum spin speed. It passes a quick spin no problem.
Now the bad news. I tried a regular wash and after the rinse cycle, the water comes back on and it repeats the rinse cycle. Over and Over again!!!
I can stop it and command a spin in service mode, but the wife is not going to happy with that. None of the valves are leaking. The machine is actually commanding another rinse cycle. Any clues?
Paul
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Paul,
Did you replace the TDS ,clean up 3 pin connector? Just curious what the fix was with TDS feedback to the Control Board to signal the Motor Control board to max 850RPM.
“” The machine is actually commanding another rinse cycle.””
On the Console is the Extra Rinse LED lit with this issue? Just trying to get a feel what the Control Board might be signaling. From what you describe it sounds like a Control Board issue.
Does this issue happen in other wash cycles?
Have you tried the test in Service Mode of “Quick Service Cycle”? If not let’s try that SM diag and see if you get a PA code to the console and if not maybe some service code that may give us a clue.
I'm not aware of any internal sensor's that feedback to the Control Board that would cause this "Stuck in repeated Rinse Cycle" issue, could be a Control Board issue. Try a different wash load cycle and the Quick Service Cycle and let's go from there………..Dick
P.S.
If we think this is a Control Board issue I have extra just need to go digging thru my parts box...... if you want to continue troubleshootingthe issue.
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Hi Dick,
YIKES!!!!
I had run one load where it tried to do its "Rinse and Repeat" thing. Turned off the water and it then finished normally.
I had not looked to see the Extra Rinse LED was lit.
We had wash backing up, so I asked my wife to run a load and I would observe more closely to see what the machine was up to...and then the phone rang. Next thing I hear from the kitchen is my wife letting me know that "The water is running a really long time". I came down to the machine overflowing. more YIKES!!! It was at the end of the Wash cycle. Not too much water in the house, but the garage is flooded. Happily I had just moved one of my collector cars out from under the drain area for a modification or else all of that soapy water would have dumped into the engine compartment.
This is a first for the machine...it has never done that before.
It did not register any diagnostic codes.
To answer your earlier questions, I did clean up and regrease the connector when I replaced the TDS. It was clean already though. The sensor itself was giving really unsteady readings and I am sure it was throwing intermittent faults causing the low speed. The diagnostic codes 5 and 10 pretty much confirmed this. I am going to mop up the mess then take off the front panel (so I can see water level) and run the SM Quick Cycle this evening.
I am getting pretty tired of throwing time and money at this thing.
Best,
Paul
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Its raining out and the garage is a mess. I am just going to wait till the sun shines to deal with that unhappy event.
Back to the subject at hand. I pulled the front panel and ran the Service Cycle. I got back AP, which I would normally consider a good thing EXCEPT the cold water is merrily pouring into the machine after the cycle is done. I turned the water off manually not wanting another flood. I turned it back on immediately and no water flows. This particular problem is sounding like a sticking water inlet valve to me. What do you think?
I think the Maytag engineers are to be credited for designing the machine to have every part fail at once!
Paul
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Hi Paul, Water over fill could be a stuck pressure switch or cold/hot water inlet valve stuck. You are very much up to using Service Mode, I would check out if you can check/turn on and off the water inlet valves in Service Mode. If that works from Console commands in SM I would check out Pressure Switch Transitions in Service Mode to the console. I lean toward a stuck pressure switch. If you type in search box dh1200s you will find issues I have tried to point users toward troubleshooting. I’m a owner like you so I’m not the sharpest tool in the shed by far but will try to help you through issues. I'll search my previous post for Pressure Switch issues, may be located on other forums Sometimes you can just tap on the Pressure Switch top (it's in a difficult to reach location lower back right bottom of the machine) and it will free up but I would replace if you don't see Low and High fill transitions take place. The Low Water level transition is quick with just a four or so inches of water in the wash basket. The high fill transition is just below the horizontal split ring in the wash basket. Everyone reaches a point when it’s time to pull the plug and move on especially in an over fill/flood experience. You did an excellent job with the Outer Tub bearing/Tub Seal replacement on what I call the Maytag 2nd gen Outer Tub design (Upper One-Way bearing ring function integrated into the Lower Outer Tub bearing assembly) not sure what the Maytag rocket scientist were thinking of with that design change. That job I feel is the most difficult work you will ever do on the machine. Having some known good spares helps when troubleshooting Console/Control board issues, Motor Control board, the motor is bullet proof IMO....I have a few items if you need....used pressure switch in my collection........Dick Saw your post after I sent this. You nailed it with the stuck water inlet valve. If you can do with out the other water inlet valve.....say cold inlet valve is stuck move hose and cold water solenoid connections over to the HW water inlet valve......use cold water routed over to the hot water inlet valve and cap off at the washer the cold water inlet. Great troubleshooting Paul.
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I checked the voltage at the valve in SM. 120VAC so that is good. I figure this valve is toast anyway, so I would do an autopsy on it. the solenoid coils are both good, so problem is internal. I pried it open, making it most likely impossible to get it to seal again...dont really care though. It is a piloted valve design which vents water pressure to both sides of the sealing surface so that it only requires a very light spring to close it. That vent was plugged which meant that the spring could not overcome the incoming pressure and the valve could not close. That is why it would close once I turned the manual valve off then on. Anyway, off to spend more $$$ on this attractive turd. This is it though. My limited attention span (not to mention my wife's...shorter than mine) has been exceeded.
Best,
Paul
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As a repair minded person I appreciate the info you have put together on this project. Just curious how much money you have spent on parts so far to get this unit back to work again. After about $100 in parts on any one machine I usually throw in the towel and bite the bullet for a new one.
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I have spent just over $200 on this thing. It has been a tease though as every time I think I am there, I uncover another problem that needs $40 to $50 part to fix. I normally will spend up to 25% of the cost of a new appliance to affect a repair. An equivalent machine is $800+, so I am pretty much there.
I think I am truly there on this washer at this point. I have gone over the whole thing and I hope to get 3-5 more years out of it. The next major thing that fails will send it to the junkyard.
I am going to stencil "Do Not Resuscitate" on it.
Paul
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Success!!!
With the new valve it works perfectly. Quiet machine, clean clothes, happy wife. Nothing was particularly difficult but having serial problems made it more painful than it needed to be.
Paul
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