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New oven installed yesterday, with new 40amp branch circuit to the breaker panel. Checked the voltage at the junction box before sliding the oven into place: 110volts each side, 220v total, so there's no problem with the wiring.
Connected everything up, slid oven into place, flipped breaker - oven lights up, control panel works, fans come on and no errors shown. But neither oven heats (it's a dual oven model) no broilers, nothing.
DOA? Or could the branch wiring be faulty somehow? But then I checked that. The only thing I can think of is that somehow when shoving the wires into the junction box then maybe one of the sides disconnected, so it's only getting 110v, but then surely the panels and fans wouldn't work? But I made sure I tightened everything in the box tightly, so this isn't likely anyway.
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Originally Posted by: stagestruck  New oven installed yesterday, with new 40amp branch circuit to the breaker panel. Checked the voltage at the junction box before sliding the oven into place: 110volts each side, 220v total, so there's no problem with the wiring.
Connected everything up, slid oven into place, flipped breaker - oven lights up, control panel works, fans come on and no errors shown. But neither oven heats (it's a dual oven model) no broilers, nothing.
DOA? Or could the branch wiring be faulty somehow? But then I checked that. The only thing I can think of is that somehow when shoving the wires into the junction box then maybe one of the sides disconnected, so it's only getting 110v, but then surely the panels and fans wouldn't work? But I made sure I tightened everything in the box tightly, so this isn't likely anyway. Stagestruck, In most cases electric wall ovens use L1 power (120 VAC) to power the control panel relays and peripheral components. L2 power(120 VAC) is pretty much "reserved" for powering the elements, through the DLB relay and or thermal fuse. (see the attached information) A quick easy check, turn power off, remove the door and the racks, and dismount the bake element and carefully slide it out until the wiring and element terminals are accessible, set your meter to read 240 VAC, place the meter leads across the element terminals and program a bake cycle. You should read 220-240 VAC. If you read 120 VAC, you've lost a power leg, if you read 0 VAC, that would indicate a "same source" power supply and would indicate a problem in the house wiring.
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Rank: Member
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Thanks.
So turns out I had put the new breaker in a space where both sides were the same phase, so I was getting 120v each side but 0v when measured across the two hot wires. Shifting the breaker to a place where it was getting the opposite phases fixed it.
Oops, anyway... All good now.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: stagestruck Thanks.
So turns out I had put the new breaker in a space where both sides were the same phase, so I was getting 120v each side but 0v when measured across the two hot wires. Shifting the breaker to a place where it was getting the opposite phases fixed it.
Oops, anyway... All good now. Stagestruck, Good Recovery, Great job. Thanks for the update.
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