GE FUM14DRARWH, compressor JSU22X106

This freezer (new to me) may work perfect, below Zero for a day or two then, I'll hear the alarm that temp has gone over 15F. I've replaced the control and the relay with a 3 N 1. Still does the exact thing. When it quits I can move the control, or sometimes just opening and closing makes it good for another day or so. Before wiring the 3 N1 I checked the terminals on the compressor, no short, 6 Ohms, to common one, 8 Ohms to common one, 13 Ohms across both. I've been told I shouldn't have laid it down to haul home, any way to recover from that mistake.

I can hear air moving for a few seconds when it is closed if it's cold. How in the world does that work?

I hate to junk it out with the new parts but I can't seem to figure it out, any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks denman, I'll leave it alone for a day.

I agree that it is unlikely, but possible the new thermostat could be bad.
I've seen the freezer go as low as -18F. That makes me think the compressor is good and what ever turns it on is failing.

Is there a way to by-pass the thermostat. If I do by-pass the control how long would it be safe to run the compressor continuous?

[COLOR="Indigo"]Instead what I would do is when it is not running and you think it is warming up gently open the door and rotate the thermostat back and forth a bit. If it fires up then I would replace the thermostat.[/COLOR]

I've done that a number of times, and each time the temperature went down immediately. It will stay down 12 to 24 hours or more before failing again.

Is replacement the best/only way to test a thermostat? What is the best way to clean the clips that attach the wires to the thermostat? I'm going to look and see if they might have enough corrosion to be an occasional problem. The new control was clean and I don't remember fouling on the wire terminals, but I might have missed a tiny amount on the terminal inside.

Thanks for your help with this frustrating issue.

Thanks denman for hanging in with this.

Yesterday I cleaned all the connections as best as I could. Those female connectors are difficult to get into with the plastic covering on them. Found the case ground screw at the control might have had enough corrosion to compromise the connection, but I don't know if that is even necessary for operation. So far it has been fluctuating between 3 and -8 for the past 20 hours. What minimum temp should it hold on max cool, in a garage with room temperatures 50 to 60?

Conclusions to this point: The compressor is very quite and doesn't get real hot. It also Ohm tested out pretty good. It must have adequate freon to reach below 0 temps.

I have no way to test the 3N1 device.

The control is the only other component in this simple freezer that needs to work for satisfaction.

With investment to this point a service call by a pro would exceed the value of the unit. And probably frustrate another person.

If it fails again, I'm probably going to bury it with my backhoe for a worm composter.

Thoughts anyone?