Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/13/2007(UTC)
Posts: 323
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tube and orifice are clear , then valve must be not opening enough ... what was your amperage reading for the broil ?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2007(UTC)
Posts: 18
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I left my meter at the shop, so I can't check amp reading until the morning. I am getting gas at the broiler, but only small amount. If I hold a lighter up to it it stays ignited but flutters. Ignitor will not light it up. Will low amp draw only partially open valve? I'm thinking perforations might be somewhat clogged and I will remove and clean overnight. If ignitor tests ok am I having a valve problem even though I get plenty of flow at oven burner?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2007(UTC)
Posts: 18
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Just thought of something else, when I set control to broil, the default temp reads 500 degrees on control panel, then press start. Temp on panel remains at 500. Is this correct or is gas being limited because it thinks it is at 500?
When I set control panel to bake, it defaults to 350, hit start, then temp reads low and rises until preheat temp is reached and then beeps when desired temp (350) is reached. Works just fine.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/13/2007(UTC)
Posts: 323
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when you choose broil the gas comes on at the same rate regardless of temp.. all the electronic needs to know is the difference between set temp and actual temp... as long as the oven is cool, the broil wants to heat the oven to 500 ( i think you can adjust broil temp between 400 and 550 ) it still is going to open up the valve and let gas flow at the same rate... .. as long as you have good tight connections w/ 110 vac and correct amperage, then you have to have a bad /weak valve ...
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2007(UTC)
Posts: 18
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Thanks Jim, that makes sense.
Are there 2 valves inside the valve control?
If so, might the broil side be obstructed?
When gas was plumbed for new kitchen I noticed a black carbon powder like substance coating the existing copper gas line.
I wiil check the amperage draw on that ignitor when I return.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/13/2007(UTC)
Posts: 323
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are you on propane or nat gas ?
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2007(UTC)
Posts: 18
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 12/13/2007(UTC)
Posts: 323
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i hate copper behind the oven , always notice a leak if flare fittings aren't just perfect ..
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2007(UTC)
Posts: 18
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New pipe in wall is iron, only copper that is left is from end of new iron through attic to iron main. Replacing original copper in attic with iron would be a real pain considering the 2/12 roof pitch of this Florida house.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/15/2007(UTC)
Posts: 18
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Thanks to some guidance from Jim (aka kawfeeman) I traced my ignition problem down to a partially glogged valve. Using an amprobe I verified that the new ignitor was drawing 3.6 amps as it is supposed to.
Having already checked and cleaned the broil gas orifice, I removed it once again, at the same time I removed the gas supply line after closing the shutoff cock. At this point I started the broil cycle, the ignitor did it's job by heating up and opening the broil valve in the valve control, with the line now open on both ends I simply blew some air through it backwards through the orifice end. Black carbon like powder expelled from the intake without much effort.
Hooked everrthing back up and all works fine. Ran it through the self-clean cycle for just an hour and a half (canceled it early) to clean up what manual cleaning missed. Got alot of smoke from the cleaning, but all is well and saved $100 valve control replacement.
Thanks again Jim for your help, now my wife can again make the best cheesecake ever. Merry Christmas!
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