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Looking to get some feedback with a problem I'm having. The washer will fill and agitate cycle fine, but will not spincycle. I took the machine apart, replaced the tub bearing and the transmission(the old one had bearing falling out of it). I put it all back togetheragain ran it through a cycle, and everything is fine right up to the final spincycle. Again, nothing! It sounds like it's trying to go into the cycle, but thedrum just never starts spinning. Motor is not turning at that point either. Motor is supposed to be clutchless. Not sure what to check next.[FONT="Times New Roman","serif"][/FONT]
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You say, it sounds like it is trying to go into spin cycle but motor is not turning. Is the motor humming? Has power to it? Or all quiet?
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  You say, it sounds like it is trying to go into spin cycle but motor is not turning. Is the motor humming? Has power to it? Or all quiet?
Eric Hey Eric - I'm not feeling a hum. Since the motor is 2-speed, is it possible to be fine during agitation cycle, but not spin? Can I throw a meter on it to check during spin?
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Check for 120vac across motor white/red and blue wires for high speed or white/red and white for low speed. If your not getting power there during spin, looks like a bad control board.
Eric
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Thanks Eric, I'll check for the 120v when I get home this evening. I'm assuming you mean to unplug the molex connector at the motor and check there. Does someone even offer a replacement control board if that is the culprit? If I have low-speed and high-speed 120v at the connector, I'm guessing the motor is the issue.
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You should check the voltage with connector plugged in. You can pull the weatherproofing material out from the connector to gain access to put your meter probes into the back side of the connector. See photo. If your not hearing anything at the motor, I doubt the motor is the problem though. The control board is still available. GE WH12X10323 Control Board Assembly - AppliancePartsPros.comEric 
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Hey Eric - thanks for help. When I got home, I hooked up my multimeter to red/white and blue wires on the connector, put the selector on "Final Spin", and hit the start button. I got 120vac on the meter and eventually the motor started to feel warm, but was not turning. So, I'm assuming at this point I'm looking at a motor? Just another quick question - should I be able to "hand turn" the drum (either clockwise or counter clockwise) when I'm in final spin mode?
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Are you able to rotate the motor pulley by hand in both directions? One direction should cause the agitator to move back and forth, the other should release the brake and cause spin. Also, while in spin cycle, check for 120vac across the motor red wire and black wire. This is the start winding for high speed. Also try removing the belt and see if motor will work when spin is selected. I don't think it's the motor because the same windings are used for agitation and spin. The only difference is that the polarity to the start winding is reversed to make the motor start in the opposite direction. You can get the tech sheet out from inside the control panel. It will tell you how to enter service mode and from there you can test high and low speed agitation as well as high speed spin. You should not normally be able to rotate the basket by hand as the brake is always applied except when your in spin cycle. In spin cycle when the motor begins to rotate, the brake release mechanism at the bottom of the transmission should release the brake. If you are getting 120vac to both the run winding and start winding and you are able to make the basket rotate by hand when rotating the motor pulley by hand, you may have a faulty start capacitor. This is used to provide additional torque to the motor. More torque is required for spin than is required for agitation.
Eric
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Hey Eric - I'm only able to turn in one direct to move the agitator, locks when I try the other way. I still need to pull the wiring schematic and check the red & black (start winding) for 120vac. Also still need to pull the belt and check. So, I'll get back to you later on those items. If the start capacitor seems to be the issue, then we are back to the troubleshooting or replacing the control board? Thanks
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The capacitor is a separate device but if you can't rotate the motor pulley in the spin direction by hand, then that is a problem. Doesn't make sense though since you have replaced the transmission. It should be initially easy to rotate the pulley in spin direction. Once the brake has released, it will be more difficult but still relatively easy as long as you use two hands to keep the rotation going. As soon as you stop, the brake will grab. Here's a photo showing what should happen. The cam dog should rotate towards the brake hub dog and this should release the brake allowing the entire transmission to start rotating. Eric 
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