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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team  Burchis, Yes the lid has to be locked in the test mode to operate the motor. So you'll need to re run the tests with the lid locked.
Also remember, the sensor in the actuator has to send the correct resistance readings to the control board, in order for the lid to lock, and complete the circuit for the motor run operation. I have completed my last test on this #&^%! machine. Still no voltage at the motor. I have come to the conclusion that the main board is defective. I thought about replacing the triacs but I am done. I have posted it on Craigslist as a defective item. I just want it gone. Thanks to everyone that has help with my troubleshooting.
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Originally Posted by: burchis I have completed my last test on this #&^%! machine. Still no voltage at the motor. I have come to the conclusion that the main board is defective. I thought about replacing the triacs but I am done. I have posted it on Craigslist as a defective item. I just want it gone. Thanks to everyone that has help with my troubleshooting. Burchis, Sometimes that's the best thing to do. Good Luck, and thanks for the opportunity.
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I have a Whirlpool WTW4950XW that does the flashing lid lock and won't spin either. At first it gave me the F7E5 error so I replaced the actuator, but I can't get it to calibrate now. It sounds like it's starting then stops after about a minute, hums then the lid lock flashes. Now it gives me an F7E1 error. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by: Mguerrero I have a Whirlpool WTW4950XW that does the flashing lid lock and won't spin either. At first it gave me the F7E5 error so I replaced the actuator, but I can't get it to calibrate now. It sounds like it's starting then stops after about a minute, hums then the lid lock flashes. Now it gives me an F7E1 error. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Mguerrero, Both error codes indicate an issue with the actuator. Since you've replaced it you'll want to check the J2 harness between the main control board and the motor/shifter. Make sure there are no loose connections at both ends of the harness and make sure there aren't any twisted or kinked wires in the harness. You'll find the Tech Data Information sheet attached to the inside of the front panel of the washer. Review the information and conduct the diagnostics and automatic and manual test modes. You'll also need a multi meter Part number: AP5641751
To test the resistances and continuity of the circuits and wires. If all checks are OK, you may want to start by replacing the wire harness. Part number: AP5177849
Under the circumstances, that the more likely issue at this point.
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Joe, thanks a lot for the reply and information for the next step. I've been reading the tech manual, but it's taking me a while to understand. Hubby has one of those multimeter testers, but he's in Colorado right now. Guess I'll have to get one. Do I have to put the washer on it's front side to remove th wire harness?
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Originally Posted by: Mguerrero Joe, thanks a lot for the reply and information for the next step. I've been reading the tech manual, but it's taking me a while to understand. Hubby has one of those multimeter testers, but he's in Colorado right now. Guess I'll have to get one. Do I have to put the washer on it's front side to remove th wire harness? Mguerrero, No, you don't have to lay the washer on it's front panel. It does make it a bit easier to work with, but you can move the washer out and lean it against the wall and get under the washer if you choose. You'll also have to access the main control board inside the console, and the harness is routed up the right side of the tub and into the top panel and control console, so leaning the machine makes it a bit easier.
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