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GluckMySock  
#261 Posted : Friday, March 21, 2014 11:56:26 AM(UTC)
GluckMySock

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and as promised, the shaft seal.
GluckMySock attached the following image(s):
neptune shaft seal.jpg
thorning  
#262 Posted : Friday, March 21, 2014 3:40:22 PM(UTC)
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If you cant find a new shaft and can afford to do it you can possibly have it polished up and chrome plated or metal sprayed to bring it back to correct dimensions but only in the pitted area. Be sure to measure the diameter in an unworn section before you do any rework,etc. Machined shafts such as this one are usually pretty expensive as a new part.
GluckMySock  
#263 Posted : Friday, March 21, 2014 4:46:54 PM(UTC)
GluckMySock

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Originally Posted by: thorning Go to Quoted Post
If you cant find a new shaft and can afford to do it you can possibly have it polished up and chrome plated or metal sprayed to bring it back to correct dimensions but only in the pitted area. Be sure to measure the diameter in an unworn section before you do any rework,etc. Machined shafts such as this one are usually pretty expensive as a new part.


Thanks for the tip. My buddy has already machined out the rusted and pitted areas and rebuilt the dimensions using stainless steel rods and tig welding. I should have it back Monday and will post pics of the finished shaft. Thanks again.
GluckMySock  
#264 Posted : Saturday, March 22, 2014 7:00:30 AM(UTC)
GluckMySock

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OK, here is the seal removed. the number on the seal is SOG 100736. I have found the seal to be 3/4" x 1/38". It's listed as discontinued with a part # AP4375416. I couldn't find it on this site, but i was able to find it online for about $15.00 shipped. That's a little pricey, but I don't have a choice. If any one has a suggestion, I am all ears. Thanks.
GluckMySock attached the following image(s):
neptune shaft seal 1.jpg
GluckMySock  
#265 Posted : Monday, March 24, 2014 5:02:45 PM(UTC)
GluckMySock

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Here is a pick of the shaft, rebuilt and polished. Parts should be here tomorrow.
GluckMySock attached the following image(s):
neptune shaft 1.jpg
smarisetty  
#266 Posted : Friday, September 12, 2014 3:30:19 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s Go to Quoted Post
Andy,

When you pull the Spinner Assembly out 9.999 times out of 10 the sleeve that is in the old tub seal will remain on the Spinner Support shaft. I show small drill bit pointing to it and the process of removing it.

You will throw that old sleeve away..... do not reuse . You will have a new sleeve installed in your new Tub Seal.

When you pull out the Spinner Support I would clean up and re-grease the cage needle bearing (Clutch Pulley end) the agitator shaft rides in just as a preventive maintenance step. That bearing can be replaced I have done so just for the hands on as well as the upper Spinner Support bearing that the splined agitator shaft end rides in. Those bearings are pictured below.

I'm no expert at this so if any of the process is not clear let me know.....Dick


So, how did you remove the small bearing 6002DU or the one from the spinner shaft.
Doug13031  
#267 Posted : Tuesday, December 16, 2014 9:11:36 PM(UTC)
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Hi, Could I get a little help? I have read all the pages of this thread, I have purchased the needed parts for a clutch, seal, bearing replacement. I have a model 13 washer with no extra white disk on top of the clutch, however the tub does have the cutouts for the disk, so I will be using it.
But, back to my question. I have removed the tub from the washer, I have removed the spinners, the 6 torx screws holding on the spinner bearings, the 4 bolts holding on the transmission, but I cannot get the transmission to come out. I have pulled on it as hard as I can even though there is not a very good hand hold to grab. I have turned the drum upside down and smacked it on the floor. It will not budge. Any suggestions? Thanks, Doug
dh1200s  
#268 Posted : Wednesday, December 17, 2014 8:38:53 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Doug13031 Go to Quoted Post
Hi, Could I get a little help? I have read all the pages of this thread, I have purchased the needed parts for a clutch, seal, bearing replacement. I have a model 13 washer with no extra white disk on top of the clutch, however the tub does have the cutouts for the disk, so I will be using it.
But, back to my question. I have removed the tub from the washer, I have removed the spinners, the 6 torx screws holding on the spinner bearings, the 4 bolts holding on the transmission, but I cannot get the transmission to come out. I have pulled on it as hard as I can even though there is not a very good hand hold to grab. I have turned the drum upside down and smacked it on the floor. It will not budge. Any suggestions? Thanks, Doug


Hey Doug,

Quote:
I have a model 13 washer with no extra white disk on top of the clutch, however the tub does have the cutouts for the disk, so I will be using it.


I don't know if I have seen a user with the FAV6800 or FAV9800 machines that has those notches in the outer tub to support the Upper Bearing ring and not use the Upper Bearing ring.

Pic below shows the Clutch Pulley the one on the left is from a series outer tub design that uses the Upper Bearing ring

If your machine series has no Upper Bearing ring then it will use the second generation Outer Tub design. What type of Lower Outer Tub bearing was installed from the factory with your series 13 machine?

With no Upper bearing ring installed it it had to be the combined Lower Outer Tub bearing that takes the place of the Upper Bearing ring. The function of the Upper Bearing ring is to prevent CW rotation of the wash basket in the wash cycle which is CW rotation of the Clutch Pulley. If your machine does not use the Upper Bearing ring then you would have to use a CSK207 type bearing to accomplish the function of the Upper Bearing ring.


Quote:
But, back to my question. I have removed the tub from the washer, I have removed the spinners, the 6 torx screws holding on the spinner bearings, the 4 bolts holding on the transmission, but I cannot get the transmission to come out. I have pulled on it as hard as I can even though there is not a very good hand hold to grab.


Not sure how to help with this issue. your at Page 40 of the SM for tranny removal. Just watch the stainless steel straps around the tranny very sharp I slow to respond and sometimes miss post all together. If I can't help maybe other owners will jump in with their thoughts............Dick
dh1200s attached the following image(s):
5a Replacement clutch 1.JPG
Doug13031  
#269 Posted : Wednesday, December 17, 2014 10:48:13 AM(UTC)
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Dick,
I definitely have the setup I described, originally no upper bearing, but the tub has the notches for it. I have the new part and have tried it on and it fits. Without the clutch/bearing on the tub, the tub rotates easily ccw and contiunues to spin nicely; it rotates with difficulty cw, and does not continue to spin at all once force is removed. Is this normal? I do not know what kind of bearings it has in it yet because I still cannot get the transmission out. It is really stuck.
Doug
dh1200s  
#270 Posted : Wednesday, December 17, 2014 11:28:29 AM(UTC)
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Good deal, with the four tranny bolts removed there is probably a lot of crud around the post casting/rubber bushings on those post of the the spinner support.

Quote:
Without the clutch/bearing on the tub, the tub rotates easily ccw and contiunues to spin nicely; it rotates with difficulty cw, and does not continue to spin at all once force is removed.


I would re-lube the One Way bearing in your new Upper One Way bearing ring as well as the One Way bearing in the Clutch Pulley bearing plate. Those One Way Bearings need to lock up Rock Solid. For the Upper One Way Bearing it needs to lock up Rock Solid in the CW direction to prevent Wash Basket rotation in the wash agitate cycle and allow free rotation of the Spinner Support in the Spin Cycle (Clutch Pulley CCW rotation).

The Clutch Pulley One Way bearing is the opposite lock up condition. With CW clutch pulley rotation wash/agitate direction it should rotate around what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler freely and lock up solid in the Spin Cycle CCW clutch pulley rotation.

I think I got the lock up conditions correct if not others please jump in.

If the Clutch Pulley One Way bearing plate does not lock up solid in spin cycle the the tumblers will begin to rotate causing the wash load to be tossed off balance.......DC/UC unbalance errors. Bottom line re-lube/at least a good WD-40 rinse and wipe dry with lint free cloth..................Dick
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