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Wash3r thanks for the video link...helps for me to have a visual! Will dig for the diagnostic sheet and try this to decipher the code.
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I have Whirlpool (WTW5640XW0) with F7E1 error code. I believe that I need the shift actuator but would like to troubleshoot further to confirm before buying.
I have cleared all error codes and ran through auto test mode. Still getting F7E1. Did a couple of manual test and I am not able to get any movement from the drum, nothing at all. So is the shift actuator still a possible issue. Shouldn't I get at least some movement from the drum?
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Originally Posted by: burchis  I have Whirlpool (WTW5640XW0) with F7E1 error code. I believe that I need the shift actuator but would like to troubleshoot further to confirm before buying.
I have cleared all error codes and ran through auto test mode. Still getting F7E1. Did a couple of manual test and I am not able to get any movement from the drum, nothing at all. So is the shift actuator still a possible issue. Shouldn't I get at least some movement from the drum? Burchis, We're pretty sure (99.9%) you're going to need the shift actuator assembly Part number: AP4514409
Just based on your description of the issue and the error code. If you wish to troubleshoot it further, you'll need a multi meter Part number: AP5641751
and start testing the wires and circuits at the main control board on page 12 of the Tech Data Information Sheet. The first thing to do is unplug the power cord open the lid and turn the tub by hand. That way we know there's nothing jammed between the tubs. Then check the harness connection at the actuator to make sure there's nothing loose or dislodged. Then conduct the resistance and voltage checks at the main control board per the tech data sheet. Good Luck
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Installed new shift actuator and still F7E1 error. I am getting a humming sound at time motor should be on, wonder if capacitor is bad? How often can it be capacitor? I did the miltimeter test on capacitor and it seems good. Is there any way to directly test motor? I could easily make some wire pigtail. Has anyone ever done this?
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Originally Posted by: burchis Installed new shift actuator and still F7E1 error. I am getting a humming sound at time motor should be on, wonder if capacitor is bad? How often can it be capacitor? I did the miltimeter test on capacitor and it seems good. Is there any way to directly test motor? I could easily make some wire pigtail. Has anyone ever done this? Burchis, To the best of our knowledge, no, no one has attempted to run a motor on a test cord for this style washer, as of yet. It doesn't look that difficult, or involved, but without the necessary information, you may not want to try it. You can check for the proper 120 VAC at the motor harness connector. It'll be a little difficult but doable. Disconnect the harness from the motor , program the test mode and check for 120 VAC across the white and orange wire, then check for 120 VAC across the white and red wires, when you switch directions at the control board. That will confirm that the control and wiring is correct and you'll need the motor. if the voltage isn't proper, you'll have to check the voltage out of the control board at the J16 connector, then check the wiring from the control to the motor.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Burchis, To the best of our knowledge, no, no one has attempted to run a motor on a test cord for this style washer, as of yet. It doesn't look that difficult, or involved, but without the necessary information, you may not want to try it. You can check for the proper 120 VAC at the motor harness connector. It'll be a little difficult but doable. Disconnect the harness from the motor , program the test mode and check for 120 VAC across the white and orange wire, then check for 120 VAC across the white and red wires, when you switch directions at the control board. That will confirm that the control and wiring is correct and you'll need the motor. if the voltage isn't proper, you'll have to check the voltage out of the control board at the J16 connector, then check the wiring from the control to the motor. Here are a few of things that I have troubleshooted: I have removed the shift actuator and shifted the lever between spin and agitate and the drum easily turns in either mode by rotating the drum pulley by hand. I have good continuity between the motor and J16 connector wires. I have removed the main control board and physically inspected for anything obviously wrong. Reassembled the board and verified that all connectors were securely connected to board. At this point I cleared error codes, ran calibration test, and then auto test mode again. Same problem occurred- error at test #12 (motor spin). Checked error code and it was F7E1 (basket speed sensor fault) Problem is- the basket never spins. I did observe the drive belt turning about 2-3 inches all along hearing a humming noise. I have completed motor voltage test but did not get what I expected. I wish to repeat test but first want to get clarification on few things. Please confirm that the test mode that I should use is the manual test mode #9 (low spin) and do I 'push and release' or 'push and hold' the start button to begin that test? At this moment should I see 120 vac on my meter? Thanks
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Originally Posted by: burchis Here are a few of things that I have troubleshooted:
I have removed the shift actuator and shifted the lever between spin and agitate and the drum easily turns in either mode by rotating the drum pulley by hand.
I have good continuity between the motor and J16 connector wires.
I have removed the main control board and physically inspected for anything obviously wrong. Reassembled the board and verified that all connectors were securely connected to board. At this point I cleared error codes, ran calibration test, and then auto test mode again. Same problem occurred- error at test #12 (motor spin). Checked error code and it was F7E1 (basket speed sensor fault) Problem is- the basket never spins. I did observe the drive belt turning about 2-3 inches all along hearing a humming noise.
I have completed motor voltage test but did not get what I expected. I wish to repeat test but first want to get clarification on few things.
Please confirm that the test mode that I should use is the manual test mode #9 (low spin) and do I 'push and release' or 'push and hold' the start button to begin that test? At this moment should I see 120 vac on my meter?
Thanks Burchis, Yes you should be using the manual test mode, and you should be able to press and release the start button. There is a five minute time limit on the test segments, but it shouldn't take you that long. Then you want to switch to the other direction and check for 120 VAC . Yes, once you have the selection made and the start button pressed, you should see 120 VAC on your meter display. When you resistance test a circuit with a meter, you can get a "false " reading. Though a little dangerous a voltage test is a bit more positive. and indicative of possible problems. If you're not getting the correct voltage at the motor connector harness, but you have the correct voltage at the control board, then the problem is in the wire harness between the two components.
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Burchis, Yes you should be using the manual test mode, and you should be able to press and release the start button. There is a five minute time limit on the test segments, but it shouldn't take you that long. Then you want to switch to the other direction and check for 120 VAC .
Yes, once you have the selection made and the start button pressed, you should see 120 VAC on your meter display.
When you resistance test a circuit with a meter, you can get a "false " reading. Though a little dangerous a voltage test is a bit more positive. and indicative of possible problems. If you're not getting the correct voltage at the motor connector harness, but you have the correct voltage at the control board, then the problem is in the wire harness between the two components. No voltage for any of the manual motor test. This includes #9 (low spin), #10 (high spin), #11 (gentle agitation), and #12 (heavy agitation). When I push the start button for either of these test I immediately get all status LED's blinking and an audible beep. Upon release of the start button the LED's return to normal, indicating the corresponding selected test. The following manual test ran normal: #0 (lid lock), #1 (cold value), #2 (hot value), #5 (fabric softener), #7 (drain). Test numbers #3, #4, and #6 were not applicable to my washer. Since all motor related test failed I am confident that the main board is defective, probably one or both of the motor triacs located behind the big heat sink on the board. Does anyone else have any ideas or comments?
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Last evening after having posted my manual test results (see post #38) I started thinking about the lid lock switch. I believe that the lid lock must be engaged to complete the motor circuit. I did not to this for any of the motor test. Although manual test #0 (lid lock) does function normally I failed to lock the lid closed before continuing on to test #9-12. I will retest and post my results later, hopefully today.
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Originally Posted by: burchis Last evening after having posted my manual test results (see post #38) I started thinking about the lid lock switch. I believe that the lid lock must be engaged to complete the motor circuit. I did not to this for any of the motor test. Although manual test #0 (lid lock) does function normally I failed to lock the lid closed before continuing on to test #9-12. I will retest and post my results later, hopefully today. Burchis, Yes the lid has to be locked in the test mode to operate the motor. So you'll need to re run the tests with the lid locked. Also remember, the sensor in the actuator has to send the correct resistance readings to the control board, in order for the lid to lock, and complete the circuit for the motor run operation.
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