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Kenmore Elite Dryer will not run for more than a second...have done lots of troublesh
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The guy in the video doesn't know what he is talking about. He has it hooked up wrong and his explanation as to how it works is wrong. Yes, it will work the way he is connecting things but it is ass-backwards. The way he has it wired, when the motor starts, power to the run winding is through the centrifugal switch. That's not how it normally runs. The centrifugal switch is only for the start winding. There is no need to use a start switch to test the motor. Just connect power between terminals 4 and 5. The motor should start and run normally as soon as you plug it in. The terminals are not 1-7 left to right as he indicates. From left to right, it's 2-6-4-3-5-7-1. 1 and 2 are not used on your dryer, 7 is ground.
Your readings aren't making much sense to me. I'm not going any further with trying to explain electrical troubleshooting. You have the tech sheet. The motor circuit is pretty simple. Power is via timer BK to BU, motor relay NO to COM, belt switch and door switch.
As for the 3 minute thing. Does it do that even if set to air fluff (no heat) setting?
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56  The guy in the video doesn't know what he is talking about. He has it hooked up wrong and his explanation as to how it works is wrong. Yes, it will work the way he is connecting things but it is ass-backwards. The way he has it wired, when the motor starts, power to the run winding is through the centrifugal switch. That's not how it normally runs. The centrifugal switch is only for the start winding. There is no need to use a start switch to test the motor. Just connect power between terminals 4 and 5. The motor should start and run normally as soon as you plug it in. The terminals are not 1-7 left to right as he indicates. From left to right, it's 2-6-4-3-5-7-1. 1 and 2 are not used on your dryer, 7 is ground.
Your readings aren't making much sense to me. I'm not going any further with trying to explain electrical troubleshooting. You have the tech sheet. The motor circuit is pretty simple. Power is via timer BK to BU, motor relay NO to COM, belt switch and door switch.
As for the 3 minute thing. Does it do that even if set to air fluff (no heat) setting?
Eric Eric, I hooked up the motor via your suggestion of just the correct terminals 4 and 5. Starts and run just fine. As for the 3 minute thing, yes it does this if set to air fluff.
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I do have some other new information to share.
I also checked for resistance between pins 4 and 5 and measured 2.0 ohms, just a tad bit lower than the recommended 2.4 to 3.6 shown in the tech sheet.
I checked for resistance between pins 4 and 3 and measured 2.0 ohms, just a tad bit lower than the recommended 2.4 to 3.8 shown in the tech sheet.
I checked for resistance between pins 4 and 6 (and pushed the centrifugal switch) and measured 2.6 ohms, which falls within the recommended 2.4 to 3.8 shown in the tech sheet.
It's my understanding that when motors fail the resistance is really really high, like 80 ohms for example.
I also performed the Factory Test. It passed all tests, except when I turned the timer to OFF. It then instantly booted me out of test mode and didn't beep like all the other functions did.
I also performed the Timer Test and checked for continuity based on the Timer Encoding Table.
It passed all tests except the following 3:
It failed the BU to BK set to OFF and Timed Dry Mode Mode
It failed the V to BK set to Wrinkle Guard and Auto Moisture Sensing Plus Mode
It failed the BU to BK set to OFF and Auto Moisture Sensing Plus Mode
I'm thinking it's the Timer or the Even Heat Control board now, and not the motor.
Any thoughts on my new info? Any help or input is appreciated.
Thanks again.
James
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The motor winding resistances read low because you are measuring them in parallel. You must activate the centrifugal switch and then check each winding. 4 to 5 for the run winding and 4 to 3 for the start winding. Motor windings RARELY fail but when they do, they generally read lower resistance due to short circuit between the coiled wires when the insulating varnish on the wire breaks down.
Disconnect and jump out the two blue wires on the motor relay. If problem still exists, it's not the control board. Try replacing the timer.
Eric
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I'll try your suggestions and report back. Thanks for sticking with me and offering advice. :)
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 The motor winding resistances read low because you are measuring them in parallel. You must activate the centrifugal switch and then check each winding. 4 to 5 for the run winding and 4 to 3 for the start winding. Motor windings RARELY fail but when they do, they generally read lower resistance due to short circuit between the coiled wires when the insulating varnish on the wire breaks down.
Disconnect and jump out the two blue wires on the motor relay. If problem still exists, it's not the control board. Try replacing the timer.
Eric Hi Eric, Ok. I believe I tested things properly now with the centrifugal switch engaged (pushed in) for all readings. Here's the new results. I checked for resistance between pins 4 and 5 and measured 3.6 ohms, which falls within the recommended 2.4 to 3.6 shown in the tech sheet. I checked for resistance between pins 4 and 3 and measured 3.8 ohms, which falls within the recommended 2.4 to 3.8 shown in the tech sheet. And could you please clarify as to what you mean by "jump out the two blue wires..."? Did I happen to do what you're asking in one of my 5 tests below? Here's some new info and tests I did regarding the motor relay. Some of it makes no sense to me... 1. I disconnected the two blue wires from the motor relay and hooked them together. Once I plug in the dryer, it attempts to start on it's own as I've described in the first post (no need to press start button). 2. I disconnected the two blue wires and the two pinks wires from the motor relay and hooked them together (blue to blue, and pink to pink). Once I plug in the dryer, it attempts to start on it's own as I've described in the first post (no need to press start button). 3. With blue wires disconnected from relay and the terminals jumped at the relay, it attempts to start on it's own as I've described in the first post when I press start button 4. With blue wires disconnected from relay and not connected to anything, it attempts to start on it's own as I've described in the first post when I press start button 5. With blue wires and pink wires disconnected from relay and not connected to anything, it attempts to start on it's own as I've described in the first post when I press start button Does any of this help determine if the motor relay is good or bad? Thank you!
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The problem is not the relay. Jumping out the relay blue wires means disconnecting the wires and connecting them together which you did. You should absolutely not have connected the two relay pink wires together. You may have damaged the control board by doing that. You are basically shorting out the 48vdc control board power supply by doing that.
Eric
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 The problem is not the relay. Jumping out the relay blue wires means disconnecting the wires and connecting them together which you did. You should absolutely not have connected the two relay pink wires together. You may have damaged the control board by doing that. You are basically shorting out the 48vdc control board power supply by doing that.
Eric Thanks Eric. So where do we go from here? Motor? Timer? or even heat control board?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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As I said before: "Disconnect and jump out the two blue wires on the motor relay. If problem still exists, it's not the control board. Try replacing the timer."
You can bypass the timer as well as a test. Unplug dryer, with two blue wires disconnected from motor relay and connected together, unplug timer wires and connect the black wire to the blue wire (not the black and blue wires that go to the control board). Plug dryer back in, motor should start. If it doesn't, it's not the timer, not the motor relay, not the control board. I see that your not really getting this at all. Have you tried to see what we are doing here by looking at the wiring diagram?
Eric
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: fairbank56 As I said before: "Disconnect and jump out the two blue wires on the motor relay. If problem still exists, it's not the control board. Try replacing the timer."
You can bypass the timer as well as a test. Unplug dryer, with two blue wires disconnected from motor relay and connected together, unplug timer wires and connect the black wire to the blue wire (not the black and blue wires that go to the control board). Plug dryer back in, motor should start. If it doesn't, it's not the timer, not the motor relay, not the control board. I see that your not really getting this at all. Have you tried to see what we are doing here by looking at the wiring diagram?
Eric Yeah, just when I think I'm getting it, I'm not...apparently. Thanks for sticking with me though and offering great troubleshooting advice, I do appreciate it. I'm a Transportation Civil Engineer, and electrical work is not my strong suit. Yes, I've been looking at the diagrams. My friend looked at it too (another Civil Engineer) and both of us agreed that it doesn't make sense to activate the centrifugal switch for testing pins 4/5 or 4/3. But since we're not appliance experts like you, we trust your advice and knowledge 110%. :) Ok. I will try your new advice regarding the timer. I hope it's the timer as it's the cheapest part of the probable suspects.
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