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Not sure on this either :confused: but it is open and after jumping it the igniter started to glow right away. About the lint issue, I check it regularly as my wife occasionally tells me that the dryer cabinet feels hot to her while drying clothes. I never find anything in the exhaust duct system.
Thanks
joe
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With the timer on, what is the voltage to ground at the thermal cutoff black wire?
Eric
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At work now on the east coast so I going to explain exactly how I got to that sensor. Jumped door switch, drum removed, started dryer on high heat when troubleshooting. Had a DVM lead on the white leg of igniter (L1) other lead to ground got 120V. Moved from ground to neutral red wire no 120V, check through centrifugal switch, up to temp selector to timer, no neutral no 120V. Popped the back off the cabinet seeing the switch on the duct with a red wire on it, I tried and got nothing, jumping to the other side of the switch, a red/white wire, hit it and saw 120V. Since I was already on L1 with the other lead this could only be a neutral or a ground? Jumper the red to red/white got the glow.The red/white is the jumper between the 2 sensors.
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Sounds like you have reverse polarity to the dryer. Either the dryer power cord is hooked up wrong or the wall receptacle is wrong. Dryer will work either way but this condition should be corrected. That's why I asked to check voltage to ground at thermal cutoff black wire with timer on. If it's zero, your running on reverse polarity. This is why, with open thermal cutoff, you are reading 120vac to ground everywhere around the ignitor, flame sensor and solenoids. With no current flow due to open cutoff, there is no voltage drop across these components.
Eric
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Thanks for the polarity information explanation. I'll concentrate on getting the dryer back in operation then figuring out the polarity of the plug/outlet. I will get back to the forum on the polarity issue as it is something that rarely occurs I'm sure.
Thanks
joe
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Eric, you were right on about the neutral. The dryer is a little to far from the outlet and there is a 5 ft extension cord created from a heavy duty appliance cord (fridge or room AC unit) molded plug one end with female added to the other end. That was the crossover point to reverse the AC. Corrected that! Thermal repair kit is on order, all that remains is why it opened? All the obvious lint inspections of the exhaust system were negative. During troubleshooting I verified the fan is working, blowing great. Is there anything I should be looking for after replacing the thermal switch and fuse? I'll be happy not having to run out to the laundry matt to dry clothes, and I want this repair to last. FYI, I had to replace the other thermal fuse on the outlet duct this past july again no lint found anywhere?
Thanks
joe
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You might want to just go ahead and replace the operating thermostat. This cycles the burner on/off during the cycle which regulates the heat.
Eric
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Would that be the switch on the exhaust side if the dryer duct, mounted next to the fusible link for hi temperature? As stated earlier, I'd hate to fix this only to have it reoccur down the road.
Thanks
joe
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Eric, Thank you for your help, I' really did appreciate learning more about the workings of a dryer. FYI, all temperature control related parts are in place :) and the dryer is humming along!
thanks again
joe
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