Here are some ideas from other folks that I copied from other posts. These are concerning the Kenmore Elite and the Whirlpool Duet Dryer.
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My experience with the Kenmore He4T dryer is that every year I had to buy a new board because of the continual beeping, and eventually failure to run. I decided to get to the bottom of the problem, I'm tired a paying $200 for a replacement board. I traced every button and LED back to the main controller board. What I ultimately found is that the signal from the End Of Cycle Volume, Start, and Cancel buttons are read using the same wire that controls the units display for the time remaining. After time this display must degrade and interfere with the signal for the EOC volume making it appear as though someone is continually pushing that button. Below are my instructions on how to fix it. Cost will be under $10 and depending on how comfortable you are doing maintenance will take less than 30 minutes.
I fixed my Kenmore dryer but the Whirlpool uses the same control board and has a little different keypad, but it essentially the same circuitry. All my fix does is put a diode in series with the cathode (pin 13 on the display board).
1. Remove screws to main keypad panel, Torx #8, or small screwdriver. Don't worry nothing will fall out, the buttons and LEDs are all soldered in. They could actually sell this board separately for a lot less, but then they'd not make as much money. Also, you can often find a cheaper assembly in a different color that your machine has, and simply swap this board with the original.
2. With main keypad board removed, look at the top side area near the upper right corner. Near the display. There is a white line indicating jumper JP12. Cut the jumper trace using an exacto knife. Make sure the trace is completely cut. If all you want to do is remedy the problem this is enough. However, the units time remaining display will not work with this jumper cut.
3. Using the holes that are at the ends of the jumper just cut, insert a diode. The black bar on the diode should be at JP12 hole next to the hole for jumper JP48. The diode end without a bar should be near the top edge of the board. I used a solder sucker to remove solder from the hole then inserted the diode to give it a neater appearance. If it is easier you can just solder the diode onto the top of the holes without actually putting the leads through.
4. You're done put it back together and try it.
Parts List:
1. If desired, 100 Piece Security Bit Set from Harbor freight (about $10) has the #8 Torx bit.
2. A diode. I used a 1N914 from Radio Shack. About $2 for 10.
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SHAME ON SEARS AND KENMORE FOR NOT DEALING WITH THIS FOR FREE. CLEARLY THEY HAVE A DESIGN PROBLEM AND IT WILL BE VERY HARD FOR MOST TECHNICIANS TO FIX.
THANK YOU FOR THIS MOST EXCELLENT POST. I had the same symptoms, and this allowed me to fix the problem. But my solution was very slightly different than what is posted here because the other common segment of the numeric display was what was causing me problems. Here is the fix...
I installed the diode as described in the post above, but that did not fix my problem. After some circuit tracing, I identified that JP57 feeds the other display. I installed another diode exactly as shown in the photo, but right next to the first one, after cutting JP57, and my problem was solved. Note that the black band goes in the same orientation as the first diode described in this posting.
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I did the JP12 and JP57 fix and still had beeping and no response from the main keypad. I then disconnected the secondary panel, the one with the modification buttons like Damp Dry, Signal volume, etc. and i'm working again. I assume there is an issue with that panel, put I decided it was easier to live without it as most of the functions are unnecessary.
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The problem is NOT in the buttons, the moisture and corrosion that cause this problem resides under the black ribbon cable Connectors on the boards!! Have successfully repaired mine by removing the connector on the board. It was not easy and you have to be very patient and carefull to cut it off (hacksaw blade and olfa knife) without hurting the pins. When you have removed the plastic from around the pins and re-soldered any that have been broken in the process then clean the area with a good contact cleaner and compressed air. Reattach the ribbons to (yes) the bare pins. Coat the connections and parts with a good quality acrylic electrical coating (2 or 3 coats between drying). Put the thing back together and your good to go. This bit of info is about to help alot of people, spread the word. I may throw together a bit of a youtube vid on this if there are enough questions.
D
PS...and yes it is not easy to remove the connector...time and patience. But better than spending $500 on a new dryer. I removed 2, the one on the modifiers board and the one (same short ribbon) on the cycle controll board.
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I have a dryer that I think is having a problem with the control board. If I put the selector on an automatic cycle with the controls off, the controls are non responsive. If I put selector on manual cycles, it works just fine..
If I put the selector in between manual and automatic cycles, it turns on with the control on button, and if I quickly move the selector to an automatic cycle it starts and runs the cycle just fine..
It seems like the electronic control (one with the selector) is bad, but I run the self test and it reports all selector, led and button functions operating correctly. This makes me think I have a bad control board (the one on the side of the cabinet.) Have you ever seen this particular behavior? Does my logic make sense regarding which board is bad?
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