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Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer NO POWER?

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This might help someone one day.. Our Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer doesn't like to start somedays.. #1 FAILURE: YouTube -

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Old 06-14-2009, 09:58 AM
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Default Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer NO POWER?
Model Number: HE4   Brand: Kenmore   Age: 1 - 5 years   

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This might help someone one day..

Our Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer doesn't like to start somedays..

#1 FAILURE:
YouTube - Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer DEFECTS and PROBLEMS

The first time it went nuts the timer button was sticking from moisture as seen in that video.. A Hair-Dryer was the cure until I cut the trace on the board... The button would stick ON and rotate the selector light CONSTANTLY.. It did dry the clothes but the timer beep would drive you NUTS..

#2 FAILURE:
This time the Hair-Dryer did the same trick but for another area.. The wife told me that it wouldn't start at all this time.. no lights.. nothing.. I metered out all of the fuses and sensors and they were fine.. I then metered out the door-switch and found that it would not make connection UNTIL you did the Hair-Dryer trick on it..

The white "CHERRY" switch on the doors on the He4 fail constantly when any moisture enters.. the contacts get corrosion on them and fail.. metering it out they check good.. but in action it fails.. So TRY that Hair-Dryer trick FIRST..

Moisture is a little HARD to avoid since you are drying clothes.. I'm looking for a way to seal-off this switch in a better way once I get a new one..

The buttons on the control panel are TINY and almost impossible to replace.. these get moisture in them and just don't work at all OR they stick ON and refuse to release.. I'm working on a better set of buttons to replace all of the units currently on my control-panel..

Will let you all know how this goes!

Rob


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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2009, 12:21 PM
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Default UPDATE: The Magic Fluid

On my He4 Dryer (almost identical to the He3 I'm guessing) that I posted about only a few hours ago:

PROBLEM:
99% of my problems were with (as I said) the buttons on the Control Panel either sticking ON or not making contact.. likely from dirty contact points inside each one...

This renders the unit power-less as the push-button selector wheel IS what turns the thing ON..

Ours appeared to have no power but that was determined false with a volt-meter.. It had power..

CURE: (unplug it first)
I removed the top cover (three or four screws in the rear) then slid it back a little and pulled it up and off...

I then removed the screws securing the side panel and control panel (it pulls UP out of a slot at each end)

I unplugged the door-switch and both ribbon cables from the control panel by pressing in the tiny clips that hold them on the main-board in the middle of each plug... (not in the control panel.. the board under the metal plate on the left)

I then took the black sheetmetal plate OFF the back of the control panel on the kitchen table exposing the back-side of the green PC board with all the buttons solder points visible..

The black-plastic area that the boards mount into pulls up and out once you find all of the little clips surrounding the area that release it from the white plastic frame...

Once you get that apart the other side shows you all of the tiny white-headed buttons in each hole.. the factory marks them with a red dot (marker) in-all there is one for each button on the face-dial of the machine.. and a few remotely mounted ones for the alarm etc.

CONTACT CLEANER:
Now first RULE with contact-cleaner is DONT GO NUTS as it can melt the plastic and/or remove the text printed on the face of your control unit... NO It won't hurt the board or the plugs but with too-much used it will melt plastic.. anything you spray should be a slow accurate burst...

On mine with the buttons facing UP I used a DROP on each button until the red marker spots they made with a marker faded away.. and I mean a DROP.. I didn't stand there spraying the stuff ON.. I got the tube full then wet each button completely and used a small screwdriver to push them up and down moving around the fluid I just sprayed in.. it dries FAST so work FAST..

I also cleaned out each connection on the ribbon-cable quickly with a quick burst on the main board and control-panel.. the larger one on mine had some signs of moisture but the cleaner removed it and any water that built up.. I seriously think that the coating they used on these connections actually prevents them from working..

The MAGIC FLUID: We used "CRC - Electra Clean" contact cleaner.. $13.00

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-02125-Cont...60510100057-20
Amazon has it and most Hardware Stores carry something similiar..

I kid you not.. the second I dropped it all in re-secured everything, plugged it in and hit the button it started.. I even did three more loads of laundry and it has yet to fail 4 hours later.. as to a week later I'll let you know...

So my video on the Hair-Dryer trick was accurate.. It dried out the buttons temporarily and allowed it to start.. But wasn't the perfect CURE.. "Contact Cleaner" was needed to clean them off internally without removing them from the board or replacing them completely...

Being a Field Service Technitian for the Foodservice Industry at least 15 years I should have thought of this earlier...

EDIT: As to it being a problem with the door-switch? Mine wasn't the problem that I stated earlier.. Because it's so close to the buttons the Hair-Dryer hit them and of course they too dried out temporarily....

HOPING that this post makes it to anyone with an HE Kenmore Washer or Dryer with "bad buttons" as yes.. they use the same buttons on MANY Models...

Rob

Last edited by BerkelUSA : 06-14-2009 at 08:52 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 11:56 AM
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Default

To original poster MANY THANKS.

This fix worked on my HE4. I had it running in under 1hr. From googling the issue to taking it apart, doing the diags from the tech sheet, to hair dryer and reassembly.

I realize the hairdryer was a temporary fix, until I go pick up some contact cleaner. I will pick some up and keep it handy if/when the problem occurs again in the future.

The wife was VERY happy, seeing as today is laundry day. I was not looking forward to buying a new $299 control panel, let alone having to wait for it to arrive.

MUCH MUCH THANKS
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 05:27 PM
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Default Dead

Well after many a repair (at least 7 times) mine is finally DEAD.. I'm not impressed with this machine at all.. many headaches that all had to do with the buttons not working.. wires with bad connections.. all ending up at the control panel.. Now my control panel is JUNK.. it's buttons are bad.. in fact they are so small on the board I'm amazed they every worked in the first place.. the machine is fine.. the panel refuses to start the motor.. If you ask me? Waaay over-designed and too much computer junk inside to do a simple job.. start a motor and turn on the heat..

I might have a cure for that...

I work on Electric Chicken Rotisseries all day that use crank-timers that turn on the heat and determine how long they cook for.. I just might trace-out the wiring to do the same thing on my Dryer once it's in the Garage and out of the cellar.. maybe as a backup.. Crank the thing to say 45 minutes and it will activate the motor and the heater.. when the time is up.. it's done!

PS: The original Video I posted of my washer is lost.. sorry

Rob
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2009, 07:13 PM
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Default

Thanks and sorry to hear about your board.

Isn't this your video...?

YouTube - Kenmore Elite He4 Dryer DEFECTS and PROBLEMS
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2010, 10:38 AM
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Talking Eureka!!!


I have had my dryer since 2005, no probs until last night. Blinking lights etc, you know that drill. Then dead. Only inside light worked. Followed your instructions and it works! Thank you very much. I called Sears repair back and told them to go to @#$%.
G

Quote:
Originally Posted by BerkelUSA View Post
On my He4 Dryer (almost identical to the He3 I'm guessing) that I posted about only a few hours ago:

PROBLEM:
99% of my problems were with (as I said) the buttons on the Control Panel either sticking ON or not making contact.. likely from dirty contact points inside each one...

This renders the unit power-less as the push-button selector wheel IS what turns the thing ON..

Ours appeared to have no power but that was determined false with a volt-meter.. It had power..

CURE: (unplug it first)
I removed the top cover (three or four screws in the rear) then slid it back a little and pulled it up and off...

I then removed the screws securing the side panel and control panel (it pulls UP out of a slot at each end)

I unplugged the door-switch and both ribbon cables from the control panel by pressing in the tiny clips that hold them on the main-board in the middle of each plug... (not in the control panel.. the board under the metal plate on the left)

I then took the black sheetmetal plate OFF the back of the control panel on the kitchen table exposing the back-side of the green PC board with all the buttons solder points visible..

The black-plastic area that the boards mount into pulls up and out once you find all of the little clips surrounding the area that release it from the white plastic frame...

Once you get that apart the other side shows you all of the tiny white-headed buttons in each hole.. the factory marks them with a red dot (marker) in-all there is one for each button on the face-dial of the machine.. and a few remotely mounted ones for the alarm etc.

CONTACT CLEANER:
Now first RULE with contact-cleaner is DONT GO NUTS as it can melt the plastic and/or remove the text printed on the face of your control unit... NO It won't hurt the board or the plugs but with too-much used it will melt plastic.. anything you spray should be a slow accurate burst...

On mine with the buttons facing UP I used a DROP on each button until the red marker spots they made with a marker faded away.. and I mean a DROP.. I didn't stand there spraying the stuff ON.. I got the tube full then wet each button completely and used a small screwdriver to push them up and down moving around the fluid I just sprayed in.. it dries FAST so work FAST..

I also cleaned out each connection on the ribbon-cable quickly with a quick burst on the main board and control-panel.. the larger one on mine had some signs of moisture but the cleaner removed it and any water that built up.. I seriously think that the coating they used on these connections actually prevents them from working..

The MAGIC FLUID: We used "CRC - Electra Clean" contact cleaner.. $13.00

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-02125-Cont...60510100057-20
Amazon has it and most Hardware Stores carry something similiar..

I kid you not.. the second I dropped it all in re-secured everything, plugged it in and hit the button it started.. I even did three more loads of laundry and it has yet to fail 4 hours later.. as to a week later I'll let you know...

So my video on the Hair-Dryer trick was accurate.. It dried out the buttons temporarily and allowed it to start.. But wasn't the perfect CURE.. "Contact Cleaner" was needed to clean them off internally without removing them from the board or replacing them completely...

Being a Field Service Technitian for the Foodservice Industry at least 15 years I should have thought of this earlier...

EDIT: As to it being a problem with the door-switch? Mine wasn't the problem that I stated earlier.. Because it's so close to the buttons the Hair-Dryer hit them and of course they too dried out temporarily....

HOPING that this post makes it to anyone with an HE Kenmore Washer or Dryer with "bad buttons" as yes.. they use the same buttons on MANY Models...

Rob
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2010, 04:13 PM
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Default Kenmore Elite Dryer - left wet rag on top, stopped working

Left wet rag on top of dryer, and locked light went on but nothing else worked. I took back off, per discussion by BerkelUSA, to get at the control panel. Tried the hair dryer, but still did not work. Buzzed out the boards on front to check for a short. LEDs worked, switches worked, resistors okay.

Next day purchased contact cleaner at hardware store and sprayed it on the connectors between boards. Wiped off excess. Used compressed air to dry, then hair dryer, then let air dry for an hour. Put everything back together, a little tricky. Has been working ever since.

Thanks for all the great information. Saved $500 in parts and labor.

Last edited by louise1001 : 09-18-2010 at 04:21 PM. Reason: clarify
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Old 04-09-2011, 04:09 PM
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Thumbs up My wifes trick

The blow dryer worked only briefly for us. Our dryer is stuck on the heavy duty dry cycle. My wife found that if she ran her finger in a circle around the cycle controls it would free up the button so that we could select a different cycle. Temporary fix, but maybe this will help some others out there.
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:58 PM
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dhering is on a distinguished road
Default Possible other failure mode

TUE 11/20/2012
After more than a year the same symptom reappeared. I totally replaced the main display panel with a brand new one.
After ONE MONTH the new panel has failed!!!!!
I GIVE UP - I just bought an old mechanical Kenmore dryer for $75 to replace it.

Mon 6/11/2012
9 months - working perfectly and the wife is happy!

Sun 12/11/2011
It is now 3 months without a failure. Wife is really pleased! I'm convinced the 'partial assembly' fix is good. DO NOT SCREW DOWN THE CIRCUIT BOARD - IT CAUSES MECHANICAL FATIGUE THAT MAKES IT VULNERABLE TO HEAT!

Mon 10/3/11 5PM
It has now been 23 days and the dryer continues to work - previously, the 'hair-dryer fix' only lasted a day or less. My solution was as described below, 'wiggle P3' and partially reassemble. I suspect that the 'partial reassembly' had more impact than the connector 'wiggle'. When I say 'partial reassembly' I mean that I did not attach the front panel to the dryer - it is just resting on the frame without any screws. My theory is that screwing down the front panel tightly causes mechanical strain on the circuit boards. This mechanical strain is causing cracks in the solder joints to open, causing an open circuit. I will continue to monitor.

Sat 9/10/11 5PM:
I have been monitoring this thread since our dryer has started exhibiting these symptoms several weeks ago. The solution offered (hair dryer) does work, temporarily. I suspect though that the failure mode is something other than bad button contacts and/or moisture...
The past week our dryer has been dead - wife is getting quite peeved going to laundromat &^) During this time I have been experimenting... We have not had any wet/moist items in the dryer for the duration, yet the symptoms persist. I can "blow-dry" the touchpad control board and restore operation. In a short while the same "dead" symptom appears. Today I just "wiggled" the P3 connector on the touchpad board, partially reassembled, and IT WORKED! NO BLOW DRYING. I am right now running the dryer, waiting for another failure, at which point I will try the same test and advise.

Last edited by dhering : 11-20-2012 at 01:17 PM. Reason: Status update
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2012, 01:20 PM
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Smile Dead HE4 dryer resurrection

I took the dryer apart like you suggested but I did not have the CRC so I merely blew out the front control board with dry air. Put everything back together again and Wallah! it works like advertised.
Many thanks for your knowledge and willingness to share.
Tom
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