Here are your parts
Parts for LEW0050PQ - AppliancePartsPros.comYou seem to be missing the last digit of the model number so you will have to choose one from the Matching Model Numbers section.
The first this to check when there is no heat is the power to the unit.
Usually the heating coil requires the full 240 volts and everything else runs off of 120 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
I cannot find any tech info (wiring diagram etc.) for this unit so must generalize on it.
There are 4 thermostats in the unit.
Items 48 and 49 in section 01 on the heater
items 3 and 4 in section 03 on the blower.
Looks like item 49 is resettable as it has a red button on the back.
48 may also be resettable but it is hard to tell from the pictures of it.
All thermostats should be 0 ohms at room temperature.
unforetunately they call every item a thermostat so I can can just give you info on how most dryers are wired.
On the blower:
One is the operating thermostat which controls the temperature.
The other is a thermal fuse which opens if it gets too hot. Usually this kills power to the motor and is caused by a dirty vent system.
On the heater:
One is a hi-limit thermostat. It opens when there is an overheat condition in the heater. It resets once the heater cools down.
The other is a thermal cut-off. It opens at a higher temperature than the hi-limit and does not reset. It is an extra safety device because the hi-limit's contacts are not made to continually open/close so eventually weld together.
The most common cause of the cutoff blowing is a grounded element so it must be checked if the cutoff is open.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
