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Twclark06  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:51:21 AM(UTC)
Twclark06

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See title for problem. Similar to problem described here:
http://forum.appliancepartspros...hot-but-not-running.html

Two questions:

1: How do I remove the cover from the relays (part AP3064545) without breaking it?

2. What are the resistance readings applicable to this model compressor, compared to the other topic?
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Twclark06  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:36:52 AM(UTC)
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OK, got the cover off. Why they put the directions on the side not facing toward the user, I don't know. I guess that's why God gave use smartphones.

I got my multi-meter out, and this is what I found.

Far pin - approx 3.3 ohms
Near pin - approx 5 ohms, though that varied a lot. Possibly my cheap multimeter.
richappy  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, December 18, 2013 2:30:20 AM(UTC)
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If the compressor is hot, but not vibrating, you probably have a bad start device, a three terminal device plugged in the side of the compressor.
The output pins form a triangle with one pin on top, the other two on the bottom. Measure ohms between the bottom two pins, if open, you have a bad start device.
Twclark06  
#4 Posted : Saturday, December 21, 2013 10:44:08 AM(UTC)
Twclark06

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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
If the compressor is hot, but not vibrating, you probably have a bad start device, a three terminal device plugged in the side of the compressor.
The output pins form a triangle with one pin on top, the other two on the bottom. Measure ohms between the bottom two pins, if open, you have a bad start device.


The configuration I have is reversed - two up, one down. The resistance between the two upper pins is about 6 ohms, not open.

I got a new relay overload and plugged it in, and reassembled the unit. When I plugged it in, I got a small flash of light, the compressor stayed cold, and the overload relay got hot. The start relay now rattles like a maraca. I think I got the connection wrong.
richappy  
#5 Posted : Saturday, December 21, 2013 12:27:20 PM(UTC)
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I checked this site and Sears, they both show no replacement start device. How did you get one and what is the part #?
Also, check the winding resistance to confirm you did not blow them open with the wrong start device and also confirm you have no shorts to the case.
Note that resistance readings will NOT show if a winding is burned out as the voltage is too low.
Measure carefully from the bottom compressor terminal to each of the other ones. If the resistance is larger from the bottom to the top left than from the bottom to top right, you have a non-standard compressor pinnout.
Twclark06  
#6 Posted : Sunday, December 22, 2013 10:21:11 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: richappy Go to Quoted Post
I checked this site and Sears, they both show no replacement start device. How did you get one and what is the part #?


To clarify - I did not replace the start device. Based on other reports here and elsewhere, I had come to the conclusion it was the overload relay that was blown, and ordered another one. I used the original start device/relay, and now I am assuming that it is destroyed. It sounds like a baby-rattle, and little bits come out of it.

There seem to be plenty of start devices on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-...e=UTF8&condition=new


Quote:
Also, check the winding resistance to confirm you did not blow them open with the wrong start device and also confirm you have no shorts to the case.
Note that resistance readings will NOT show if a winding is burned out as the voltage is too low.


The resistance values have not changed as far as I can tell.

Quote:
Measure carefully from the bottom compressor terminal to each of the other ones. If the resistance is larger from the bottom to the top left than from the bottom to top right, you have a non-standard compressor pinnout.


Nope. The top left (far pin) was about 3 ohms, top right (near) was about 5.

The compressor.UserPostedImage
Compressor installation
UserPostedImage

Compressor pins
UserPostedImage

Start relay/device
UserPostedImage

Relay overload
UserPostedImage
richappy  
#7 Posted : Sunday, December 22, 2013 1:14:54 PM(UTC)
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All indications show a shorted compressor. You have the standard pinnout. You can use the start device WR09X10106; do not use a ptc device as you risk burning out the compressor if wired wrong.
Twclark06  
#8 Posted : Sunday, December 22, 2013 1:30:46 PM(UTC)
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OK, how does that go on in place of the start relay, or do I need to replace that as well?
richappy  
#9 Posted : Monday, December 23, 2013 1:01:37 AM(UTC)
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Look at it's picture, it replaces both the start device and overload Klixon.
Twclark06  
#10 Posted : Saturday, December 28, 2013 2:19:45 PM(UTC)
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Alright, got it. Looking at it, I guess it's fairly obvious that the red wire goes into the vertical slot, and the white wire into the horizontal slot. If I hold it like the pin arrangement I have on my compressor (two up, one down) and looking at the face that has the pole on it, the red wire would go into the slot on the left side, and the white wire into the bottom slot?
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