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there is a noise suppressor/voltage distributer AP3009547
anyhow it blows as soon as I turn on the power supply breaker
also the control panel will not lite up?
Wiring seems correct and cant see any shorts etc.
any ideas? what is the idea of this suppressor?(function)
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Ok I found out what the suppressor does. If the suppressor blows up I assume it has too much voltage? and I assume it supplys the power to the control panel? anyone know?
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Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool KEBC107KSS05 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. The suppressor is supposed to filter any power voltage spikes to ground so that they do not blow the electronics on the control board. It filters the L1 side of the line which also feeds the control board. Very strange that they are blowing. Has this unit ever worked OK with the current wiring set up? If not then odds are there is either a hook up problem or a problem with the house wiring. Check the power. Check the voltage at the plug, usually ovens are hard wired so there is no receptacle. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Parts for Whirlpool KEBC107KSS05 Wall Oven - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the wiring diagram. The suppressor is supposed to filter any power voltage spikes to ground so that they do not blow the electronics on the control board. It filters the L1 side of the line which also feeds the control board. Very strange that they are blowing. Has this unit ever worked OK with the current wiring set up? If not then odds are there is either a hook up problem or a problem with the house wiring. Check the power. Check the voltage at the plug, usually ovens are hard wired so there is no receptacle. L1 to L2 should be 240 volts L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts. If OK Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out If OK Check the power at the terminal strip. Do this with the heater off and on. Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! found out that stove was wired wrong.Was seeing 240V at filter.I assume this would have fried the control panel and most likely the lite transformer?
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The control panel may have survived but it would likely blew the control board. May have also blown the power transformer.
The light power supply may be OK if the door was closed when you applied power to it. |
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Originally Posted by: denman The control panel may have survived but it would likely blew the control board. May have also blown the power transformer.
The light power supply may be OK if the door was closed when you applied power to it. whats the difference between the control panel and the control board? are they not one and the same just slightly different way of description?
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Originally Posted by: denman The control panel may have survived but it would likely blew the control board. May have also blown the power transformer.
The light power supply may be OK if the door was closed when you applied power to it. One repair idea was to check the thermal switch? but I don't see what the thermal switch has to do with the power supply/activation of the control panel whats your thoughts on that idea.I did check wire in and wire out and it shows flow through continuity
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Yes it may just be semantics.
The control board is the actual electronic control it is item 3 in section 02.
The control panel is the keypad, item 5 in section 03.
I also that the thermal switch (fuse) is not the problem as it just kills power to the oven elements. |
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