Hi guys, I'll try not to repeat many of the topics already written, but I'm running out of ideas for restoring heat to my electric dryer.

This is what I've learned so far:
1. I purchased and replaced the heating element (I bought it before I tested it as I'm motivated to get this thing repaired as soon as possible). I installed it anyway just to extend the life of the machine.
2. both the thermal cut-off fuse and the high-limit thermostat have continuity. I assume that both of these pieces do not have polarity, i.e. it doesn't matter which lead goes on which terminal.
3. the circuit breaker isn't tripped and I get 120 volts out of each side of the 240 volt outlet.

Later today, I intend to inspect and test the 240 cord itself, but it appears to be in great condition, so I'm thinking that the temperature select switch may have gone bad. I will test the resistance of each setting, but as all settings give me no heat, I think the whole thing would be broken. The drawings don't indicate any other fuses in the unit unless I missed it. Any other ideas?

PS - for future readers, sometimes these dryer units are puzzle boxes. This dryer is not accessed from the back, but from the front through the panel below the front door. Stick a putty knife between the door and the lower panel, above two spring clips to compress each one and unlock the panel. It will swing down on hinges to reveal the area with the heating element and other components. The panel can then be removed.

I see you have 120 VAC on each side of the outlet, but do you have 240 VAC across the two outside terminals where the cord is connected? Let's verify the incoming voltage before getting too in depth. If it is adequate, we can move in with some more testing so you can stop replacing parts. ;)

Great, thank you! This machine is a bit different than most, in that it uses a separate relay that is energized by the electronic control to complete the element path. So, in the timer console, do you see the relay with two red wires and two red/white wires? If so, turn the timer to a setting that would call for heat but do not start the machine. Measure from both red wires to ground. Do you read 120 VAC?

That is correct, we need to see if there is power coming from the red wire to that relay. Let me know what you find.

No, I hadn't seen the Tech Sheet, thank you. Of course, when I finally get into the console (another puzzle box), I found a paper copy neatly folded inside.

I found the relay and tested ohms between the red wire connector to ground, where a green wire to bolted to metal, and got an open connection. But it occurs to me that the unit is not plugged in, so maybe that's not ground unless I do? And them test for VAC between the wire and ground? I'll wait for that answer before I do anything.

As for the thermistor, that's my fault. My little multimeter has a single setting, ohms X1K, so 9 equals 9K ohms, which is within range of the tech sheet.