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sanjayG  
#21 Posted : Monday, September 30, 2013 2:01:22 PM(UTC)
sanjayG

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I have a Amana ARGS7650SS P1130766NSS which is about 11 years old - the oven heats upto temp - but will not hold temp and cuts out - with the control panel going blank (completely off) no error number. Once the oven cools the control panel will come back on and flash - if its cool enough then you can re-enter the temperature and hope it gets to temp before switching off.

Do you know if this would be just a high temp switch problem? and if so which part?

Many thanks
Joe / APP Team  
#22 Posted : Tuesday, October 1, 2013 5:37:22 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: sanjayG Go to Quoted Post
I have a Amana ARGS7650SS P1130766NSS which is about 11 years old - the oven heats upto temp - but will not hold temp and cuts out - with the control panel going blank (completely off) no error number. Once the oven cools the control panel will come back on and flash - if its cool enough then you can re-enter the temperature and hope it gets to temp before switching off.

Do you know if this would be just a high temp switch problem? and if so which part?

Many thanks


Sanjay, There are a couple of things to check, first make sure the cooling fan runs

Part number: AP4280271
Part number: AP4280271


If the motor doesn't run and cool the cooktop, the hi limit switch will open and turn the power off to the control. Then test or replace the hi limit switch

Part number: AP4041090
Part number: AP4041090


When it opens, power to the control is eliminated. It's located on the upper right area of the cavity, on the back of the range, or under the cooktop, in the same area.
supramantt  
#23 Posted : Saturday, November 2, 2013 7:33:20 PM(UTC)
supramantt

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Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.
Joe / APP Team  
#24 Posted : Monday, November 4, 2013 6:16:53 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: supramantt Go to Quoted Post
Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.

Supramantt, Yes your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches

Part number: AP4041090
Part number: AP4041090


and
Joe / APP Team  
#25 Posted : Monday, November 4, 2013 6:23:38 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: supramantt Go to Quoted Post
Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.


Supramantt, Yes, your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches,
Part number: AP4041090
Part number: AP4041090

and
Part number: AP4041226
Part number: AP4041226


You'll need to conduct the same tests and checks as the previous post,cooling fan, limit switch circuits, etc. If the limit switch circuits and fan motor check OK, then the issue is in the ERC/Clock
Part number: AP4041311
supramantt  
#26 Posted : Wednesday, November 13, 2013 6:59:36 PM(UTC)
supramantt

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Supramantt, Yes, your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches,
Part number: AP4041090
Part number: AP4041090

and
Part number: AP4041226
Part number: AP4041226


You'll need to conduct the same tests and checks as the previous post,cooling fan, limit switch circuits, etc. If the limit switch circuits and fan motor check OK, then the issue is in the ERC/Clock
Part number: AP4041311

OK, i am having a hell of a time. I have now replaced both limit switches and the unit still does not turn on. So let me go over the issues that i have had so far. I purchased my house with this range 2 years ago. After about 6 months the range would randomly turn off. At first we thought it was related to a power outage, but then we saw it happen completely randomly. It would go out for an hour or two. It did also sometimes go out when the unit was in use, so we just had to wait. I also remember that recently the unit took up to 40 minutes to start warming up when the display was working. I would set it to 400 and the noise for the gas lighting would not come on for a long time.
Anyways, i just went to LA for a week and when i came home, the unit was off. It has not turned back on. I assumed it was the limit switch because so many others were having the same problem. It clearly is not. I also want to mention that i do not believe i have ever heard the fan turn on. So the fan probably is broken too. I just don't remember it. I have disassembled the display and i do not see any leaky capacitors or anything. I am VERY stumped. I have read this thread thoroughly, but i do not see any actual steps recommended, just parts to test. I do not know what i should do to test the LCD unit or the fan. Please let me know what i should do next. I really do not want to have to replace the whole stove, but it clearly is not a very reliable unit. :(

Here is what my control unit looks like.

If you notice the corner, it looks like it might have had an issue there where something blew.
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage
Joe / APP Team  
#27 Posted : Friday, November 15, 2013 5:49:40 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: supramantt Go to Quoted Post
OK, i am having a hell of a time. I have now replaced both limit switches and the unit still does not turn on. So let me go over the issues that i have had so far. I purchased my house with this range 2 years ago. After about 6 months the range would randomly turn off. At first we thought it was related to a power outage, but then we saw it happen completely randomly. It would go out for an hour or two. It did also sometimes go out when the unit was in use, so we just had to wait. I also remember that recently the unit took up to 40 minutes to start warming up when the display was working. I would set it to 400 and the noise for the gas lighting would not come on for a long time.
Anyways, i just went to LA for a week and when i came home, the unit was off. It has not turned back on. I assumed it was the limit switch because so many others were having the same problem. It clearly is not. I also want to mention that i do not believe i have ever heard the fan turn on. So the fan probably is broken too. I just don't remember it. I have disassembled the display and i do not see any leaky capacitors or anything. I am VERY stumped. I have read this thread thoroughly, but i do not see any actual steps recommended, just parts to test. I do not know what i should do to test the LCD unit or the fan. Please let me know what i should do next. I really do not want to have to replace the whole stove, but it clearly is not a very reliable unit. :(

Here is what my control unit looks like.

If you notice the corner, it looks like it might have had an issue there where something blew.
UserPostedImage
UserPostedImage


Suptamantt, The discoloration on the ERC display is of no concern, it's pretty much normal, and occurs in the production process, as long as it doesn't interfere with the display it's normal.
We've included the wiring diagram and tech information sheet, so you can visualize and trace the circuit and voltages from the line cord, through the limit switch and into the control board. To test the fan, you can apply 120 VAC to the motor terminals, with a test cord, if the fan runs, the motor's OK, and you need to check the wiring or the fan motor limit switch. Don't think you'll find any loose connections or wiring, but you'll need to look for that possibility as well. With the diagram, you should have the issue diagnosed and repaired shortly.
File Attachment(s):
T231_3R10.pdf (303kb) downloaded 8 time(s).
supramantt  
#28 Posted : Friday, November 15, 2013 6:10:47 AM(UTC)
supramantt

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Suptamantt, The discoloration on the ERC display is of no concern, it's pretty much normal, and occurs in the production process, as long as it doesn't interfere with the display it's normal.
We've included the wiring diagram and tech information sheet, so you can visualize and trace the circuit and voltages from the line cord, through the limit switch and into the control board. To test the fan, you can apply 120 VAC to the motor terminals, with a test cord, if the fan runs, the motor's OK, and you need to check the wiring or the fan motor limit switch. Don't think you'll find any loose connections or wiring, but you'll need to look for that possibility as well. With the diagram, you should have the issue diagnosed and repaired shortly.

A broken fan wont stop the unit from turning on, right? Also, if i have replaced both limit switches, then the only next step is to replace/repair the control board, is that correct? Being that i see the board has been replaced at least once, i have a strong feeling it has gone out again.
Joe / APP Team  
#29 Posted : Friday, November 15, 2013 10:11:59 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: supramantt Go to Quoted Post
A broken fan wont stop the unit from turning on, right? Also, if i have replaced both limit switches, then the only next step is to replace/repair the control board, is that correct? Being that i see the board has been replaced at least once, i have a strong feeling it has gone out again.


Supramantt, Correct, a faulty cooling fan won't stop the unit from turning on.
It could cause the range to "shut down" in a cooking mode, if the fan doesn't run and cool the area. If you've replaced the limit switches, checked and made sure there are no loose connections or wires and you are plugged into a polarized, grounded, 120 VAC outlet, then the control is the next logical step, we weren't aware that the control had failed previously, but yes it could be the issue again.
supramantt  
#30 Posted : Wednesday, November 20, 2013 8:24:02 PM(UTC)
supramantt

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Supramantt, Correct, a faulty cooling fan won't stop the unit from turning on.
It could cause the range to "shut down" in a cooking mode, if the fan doesn't run and cool the area. If you've replaced the limit switches, checked and made sure there are no loose connections or wires and you are plugged into a polarized, grounded, 120 VAC outlet, then the control is the next logical step, we weren't aware that the control had failed previously, but yes it could be the issue again.

I have tested the fan, it works flawlessly. I think the reason i thought it did not work was because it is so silent. Anyways, i have tested multiple outlets and still nothing. I have disassembled the control unit and i thought i found a faulty relay, but i just remove the relay and opened it. I dont think there is anything wrong with it. There was gunk leaking from the bottom of the relay and i thought that was strange because relays dont usually have gunk inside. Anyways, everything looked normal when i opened the relay. I am totally baffled. Can you think of anything else that might cause the system to not power up?
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