If the water inlet valve is good and the water is coming into the ice maker as soon as the power applied to the solenoid, replace the ice maker.

- The ice maker Part number: AP2984633

Hi Gene,

I have a Kennmore Model #106.53652300 (going on TEN Years old). We had the ice maker out of service for almost two years during a kitchen remodel. The fridge was never turned off, but the water line was not reconnected to the ice maker till recently after over the whole time as described above. The ice maker worked normally for a couple of weeks and then stopped. Here are some points I will advise...:

1. The refrigerator always had good water filters. I pretty much removed the stock one and had one of those GE double barrel units under the sink and at the point of origination to the line supplying the fridge.

2. I did have problems with the freezer-to-fridge air duck mechanical unit a couple years prior. I pretty much disconnected everything to the electronic control to the air duct (sliding diffuser). I ordered the replacement part but it did not seem to want to incorporate the electronic motorized portion of the thru wall duct, so i just set it "manual" for a while. THIS WENT ON FOR A COUPLE YEARS PRIOR TO THE EXTENDED WATER LINE ABSENCE. However, I make have only recently just disconnected the Thermistor prior to the reconnection of the water line as it seemed to have no reason for connection any more.

3. Long and short is that the water line to the frige was re-connected recently and now UNFILTERED for the first time ever. It ran correctly for a month tops and then issues. FIRST, It just stopped kicking the ice out after it was ready to bump out. I took the ice maker out a few times washing it out and thawing it, and still the same. The first ice would load and form, but no kick out.

4. It should be noted that I got sloppy and broke the flapper to the Light beam control side (on the left where the four prong connection is. So I took it out of the side of the frige wall for a few days while I glued it back together. When I re-installed it, NOW THE PROBLEM IS NOT ICE AT ALL and as if there is a water supply problem too. AGAIN, the water to the door services to fill a glass still...

5. The water to the door spigot still work to fill a glass of water.

6. I have confirmed that when the door is open and I hold down the flap to block the light - the beam does go thru and IS Acknowledge by the right side (with the on/off switch), as the light stops flashing after 2-3 seconds when observing.

7. I have checked the main ice maker connection and it seems to be fully engaged/connected. Tonight, I Disconnected the side on the left (with 3 screws) and checked to be sure I plugger the 4 prong back up right. The only thing I note different is that I pushed it a mm further than I thought was the previous max "push down". So perhaps.....

8. OTHERWISE, and when I wake in the morning and their is still no ice, do you have any thoughts..?

Thanks in advance!
Bill

Disconnect the power supply. Slide the ice maker out and unplug the wire harness. Check for continuity the black wire. If there is no continuity, the ice maker wire harness would need to be replaced.
Otherwise very likely the ice maker control module has gone bad. I would recommend replacing the whole ice maker instead of trying to repair the old one. On the first look the price for the control module $64.98 vs the price for the whole ice maker $117.27. But in order to replace the control module, you also would need to order the new cycling thermostat ($30.49) and the alumilastic cement ($28.65).

The wire harness Part number: AP6019222

The only idea is that it took time for the new ice maker to get used to your refrigerator :)