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Jenn-air Electric Range right-front element fails - hot indicator lamp stays on
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I will check this tonight, but wires from Switch to the Element could not have been disconnected or became loose as burner comes ON with my old switch. Thank for your reply.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/30/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Resistance between pin 3-4 is about 10,000 ohms. I could not have screwed up on the 220 VAC and red wire being at the right place as harness only slides into place in one position. Also like I said before, the burner comes on and stays only at Hight temprature with the old switch so wires should be good.
Do you suggest/recommend anything esle to check before I take the part back and get a replacement?
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Originally Posted by: rgupta03  Resistance between pin 3-4 is about 10,000 ohms. I could not have screwed up on the 220 VAC and red wire being at the right place as harness only slides into place in one position. Also like I said before, the burner comes on and stays only at Hight temprature with the old switch so wires should be good.
Do you suggest/recommend anything esle to check before I take the part back and get a replacement? Just trying to cover the many and various possibilities. At this point, Yes, you'll need to try and get another switch Part number: AP4369619
MPN W10185286
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/30/2013(UTC)
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Hi Joe,
I got a switch replacement, but unfortunately the new switch is doing the same thing giving me the feeling that there is something esle that is wrong. When I install the new switch, the burner never comes on just like there is no power to it. I install the old broken switch, the burner at least comes ON, but turning the switch does not regulate the temprature.
I checked the power into the new switch to be 220V, but I am not sure what pins to check the power out of the swtich. Could you please guide me as to what I should check next.
Again, the broken switch works partially, but the new switch does not power on the burner at all. :confused: :confused:
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
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Originally Posted by: rgupta03 Hi Joe,
I got a switch replacement, but unfortunately the new switch is doing the same thing giving me the feeling that there is something esle that is wrong. When I install the new switch, the burner never comes on just like there is no power to it. I install the old broken switch, the burner at least comes ON, but turning the switch does not regulate the temprature.
I checked the power into the new switch to be 220V, but I am not sure what pins to check the power out of the swtich. Could you please guide me as to what I should check next.
Again, the broken switch works partially, but the new switch does not power on the burner at all. :confused: :confused: Ok, You'll need to conduct a "live" voltage test and the new custom control switch, and the burner element terminals. So be careful !!!! You stated you have 220 VAC across the red and black wires in the 3 pin connector on the switch, so you have power into the switch. With the custom switch set to the highest setting(so both elements should be engaged), at the 6 pin connector, pin 1 red to pin 5 tan should read 220 VAC. From Pin 1 red to pin 6 yellow, you should read 220 VAC. This is the power out circuit to the burner element from the switch. You will also need to repeat the same voltage checks at the burner element. Terminal 1A on the sensor box on the burner will have the red wire attached to it, From red 1A to the yellow wire on the side terminals of the element you should read 220 VAC (inside element ring). From the red 1A terminal to the tan wire on the side terminals of the element, you should also read 220 VAC ( outside element ring). Best guess at this point is a wiring issue, but you'll know where the issue is when you conduct the voltage tests.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/30/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Joe,
Since the burner turns on with old switch, it makes me believe that problem is with the switch again. If the problem was with wiring to the burner terminals, it won't come on at all with old swtich or the new switch. Does that make sense? I will check the power out from the switch and I am almost sure that the problem will be power out of the switch. I couldn't test that last night because I didn't know what pins to test it against.
Thank you so much for all your guidance on this.
:) :)
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
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Originally Posted by: rgupta03 Joe,
Since the burner turns on with old switch, it makes me believe that problem is with the switch again. If the problem was with wiring to the burner terminals, it won't come on at all with old swtich or the new switch. Does that make sense? I will check the power out from the switch and I am almost sure that the problem will be power out of the switch. I couldn't test that last night because I didn't know what pins to test it against.
Thank you so much for all your guidance on this.
:) :) Yes, Your statement " Since the burner turns on with old switch, it makes me believe that problem is with the switch again. If the problem was with wiring to the burner terminals, it won't come on at all" makes sense. That's why you want to conduct these voltage checks with the wires attached to the switch and burner. If necessary, you'll want to repeat the tests with the wires detached from the burner and switch, This will verify a wiring or voltage issue. The other alternative is, the parts distributor has bad stock in his parts warehouse ??? If the switch checks bad you may want to try a different distributor.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/30/2013(UTC)
Posts: 8
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Joe,
It turns out that the second part that I got from the distributor was also bad. I checked that power going into the switch was 220VAC, but power out of the switch was noted to be none. My old switch reads 220 VAC into the switch as well as out of the switch on Pin 1 and 6 and pin 1 and 5.
Thank you for your help and I will be getting another switch and hope this one works. I will post results as soon as I test the new switch. I am going to try to test the switch prior to instaling it this time to save some time.
Truely appreciate your help.
:) :)
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: rgupta03 Joe,
It turns out that the second part that I got from the distributor was also bad. I checked that power going into the switch was 220VAC, but power out of the switch was noted to be none. My old switch reads 220 VAC into the switch as well as out of the switch on Pin 1 and 6 and pin 1 and 5.
Thank you for your help and I will be getting another switch and hope this one works. I will post results as soon as I test the new switch. I am going to try to test the switch prior to instaling it this time to save some time.
Truely appreciate your help.
:) :) Rgupta03, Very good ideas. We'll be looking for your report. Thanks
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My drop in Jenn Air Electric Range has a similar problem, the right front burner element, the "special" burner that heats up super fast, the hot burner light stays on constantly, and if I try to use that burner, it only goes full blast HOT . . . no adjustment . . . so I am basically down to three burners . . . this happened not too long after we bought the stove . . . maybe a year . . . so do you suspect a switch?
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Jenn-air Electric Range right-front element fails - hot indicator lamp stays on
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