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Model: GBS22HBP Brand: GE Age: 1 - 5 years
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jtwtmn  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, July 30, 2013 9:16:16 PM(UTC)
jtwtmn

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General Electric Model GBS22HBPAWW

The problem is that the refrigerator is only cooling to 60 degrees (no matter the setting) and the freezer seems to be fine.

I am at the point that I want to test the damper door. Where can I check it and how?

Some history on the unit:
Both defrost sensors and the motherboard have been recently replaced by a technician.
The new parts did not fix the problem so the tech had to return at which time he unplugged the damper door and within a week everything on the upper shelves froze.

My in laws were tired of the problems and bought a new unit. I like to tinker so I have been messing with different troubleshooting suggestions.


Update:
I can manually open the damper door but after a few minutes it will close no matter what the temp in the fridge is or where the temp setting is.

I have unplugged the encoder to see if I could get the refrigerator to cool at it's default settings. This still did not open the damper door. I have tested the motherboard at J3 for 12v and got nothing. Although I can't get 12v anywhere on the board. I have another meter at work I will bring home and try again.

I tried this from richappy...
Encoder test I have learned a good test for this refrigerator encoder (fridg./freezer control).
If the fridg. fails to run, you might have a bad encoder that sends digital signals to the motherboard.
Just unplug the encoder, the motherboard will automatically go to the default levels of 0 and 36 degrees for freezer and fridg. and will operate till a new encoder can be put in.


In the meantime is there a resistance check I can do on the damper motor to test it?

I found a post by richappy that detailed checking the damper motor. My motor tested at 428 ohms therefore I conclude that it is good.

Damper motor test For the GE GS and PS models and all ones with the Part number: AP4297272
Part number: AP4297272
motherboard with damper door problems.
I believe the damper is controled by a simple on/off application of voltage cycling on the thermistor resistance.So, in normal operation, the door will open and close periodically.If the fridge is very warm, the door will remain open till the fridg. gets down to the control setting temperature.Precise control of the fridg. temperature is done by control of the fan speed; higher frequency, more airflow, lower frequency, less airflow. All thermisters are the same; 65kohm=-
-13 degrees, 12kohm=+40 degrees, 5kohm=+75 degrees. These are just typical readings. You can measure these at the J1 connector of the motherboard, upper right. Measure between common J1-pin5 and either J1-1 fresh food, J1-2 fresh food, J1-3 freezer and J1-4 evaporator, used to terminate defrost.
If your thermisters are reading close to these sort of normal values and the damper door remains open, or closed, and the damper motor is not blown out, you probably have a bad motherboard. The 12 volt dc motor resistances are red- yellow 430 ohm, blue-white 430 ohm. If either of these are shorted or way low in value, you will need to also buy a new damper assembly as it will blow out the motherboard. To check the motherboard output voltages to the damper, go to the upper middle connector J3. Measure between J3-1 and J3-2, then between J3-3 and J3-4 should be around 12 volts.
The South Jersey schematic was scubbed off the Samurai site, only available to pros, just refer to your service schematic. If it is missing, contact me for pin info.


I was unable to get 12v anywhere on the motherboard. My conclusion is that I will require a new (updated) motherboard.

Thanks richappy, Search function and *google*
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jtwtmn  
#2 Posted : Thursday, August 1, 2013 9:04:23 AM(UTC)
jtwtmn

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In an effort to unify all the diagnostic steps I have found I am going to post them here as the information on this site is sparatic and most of the diagnostics are never finished by the OP.

Post by richappy:
Encoder test I have learned a good test for this refrigerator encoder (fridg./freezer control).
If the fridg. fails to run, you might have a bad encoder that sends digital signals to the motherboard.
Just unplug the encoder, the motherboard will automatically go to the default levels of 0 and 36 degrees for freezer and fridg. and will operate till a new encoder can be put in.

My addition: FYI the encoder is the temprature control board in the light/switch cover inside the refrigerator.

Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...ent-4.html#ixzz2ajmKHltk
http://forum.appliancepartspros.com

Another post by richappy:
Damper motor test For the GE GS and PS models and all ones with the AP4297272 motherboard with damper door problems.
I believe the damper is controled by a simple on/off application of voltage cycling on the thermistor resistance.So, in normal operation, the door will open and close periodically.If the fridge is very warm, the door will remain open till the fridg. gets down to the control setting temperature.Precise control of the fridg. temperature is done by control of the fan speed; higher frequency, more airflow, lower frequency, less airflow. All thermisters are the same; 65kohm=-
-13 degrees, 12kohm=+40 degrees, 5kohm=+75 degrees. These are just typical readings. You can measure these at the J1 connector of the motherboard, upper right. Measure between common J1-pin5 and either J1-1 fresh food, J1-2 fresh food, J1-3 freezer and J1-4 evaporator, used to terminate defrost.
If your thermisters are reading close to these sort of normal values and the damper door remains open, or closed, and the damper motor is not blown out, you probably have a bad motherboard. The 12 volt dc motor resistances are red- yellow 430 ohm, blue-white 430 ohm. If either of these are shorted or way low in value, you will need to also buy a new damper assembly as it will blow out the motherboard. To check the motherboard output voltages to the damper, go to the upper middle connector J3. Measure between J3-1 and J3-2, then between J3-3 and J3-4 should be around 12 volts.
The South Jersey schematic was scubbed off the Samurai site, only available to pros, just refer to your service schematic. If it is missing, contact me for pin info.


Note: This motherboard was used in many refrigerators. This particular motherboard was part of a recall.
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Gene  
#3 Posted : Thursday, August 1, 2013 12:37:01 PM(UTC)
Gene

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Originally Posted by: jtwtmn Go to Quoted Post
...Another post by richappy:
Damper motor test For the GE GS and PS models and all ones with the AP4297272 motherboard with damper door problems....
...The 12 volt dc motor resistances are red- yellow 430 ohm, blue-white 430 ohm. If either of these are shorted or way low in value, you will need to also buy a new damper assembly as it will blow out the motherboard. To check the motherboard output voltages to the damper, go to the upper middle connector J3. Measure between J3-1 and J3-2, then between J3-3 and J3-4 should be around 12 volts....



Hello jtwtmn,

Unfortunately the information you quoted is not accurate in regards of the voltage value and voltage test points for the dumper motor. This is actually 6 VDC motor.

Also it's not clear if you did check the fresh food thermistor. It has to be tested together with measuring exact temperature inside the compartment.

The output voltage to the damper motor would need to be tested as follows:
Unplug the J3 connector from main control board. Unplug the refrigerator to reset, then reconnect power. Use the pin J4-3 as the common and check for 6VDC between this pin and each of the pins J3-1, J3-2, J3-3 and J3-4. You have only 10 seconds to check.

If the readings are incorrect, then the main control board would need to be replaced. Since richappy posted this information in 2009 GE had redesigned the main control board and the new APP part number for the new main control board is AP4436216.

Thank you,
Gene.
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jtwtmn  
#4 Posted : Friday, August 2, 2013 10:34:14 AM(UTC)
jtwtmn

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Thank you Gene for the update to the testing procedure. I checked the thernisters at the board and they fell within specs although I'm not sure what the readings were.
I had a mishap while testing voltages and shorted the fuse to ground blowing the fuse. I have ordered a replacement fuse to resolder to the board at which time I will retest everything before I order a new motherboard. I will report back with my findings.

Thanks again.
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jtwtmn  
#5 Posted : Tuesday, August 6, 2013 11:02:28 PM(UTC)
jtwtmn

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Joined: 7/30/2013(UTC)
Posts: 5
Problem solved!
So I replaced my blown fuse on the motherboard no problem. Then checked the damper door voltage as described by Gene (above post) I had 6.4v. I then checked the thermisters in both the fresh food and freezer. The thermisters had 14ohms at about 45 degrees so I figured them to be good.
I ran some numbers I found on the motherboard which ended up crossing to the updated motherboard so I searched for the install instructions for the motherboard and found that 2 wires needed to be cut in the bottom freezer model or the refrigerator would not cool properly. The repair guy must not have read the instructions when he installed the new board for my in-laws because neither wire had been removed.
I removed these 2 wires and let it run for 24 hours with thermometers in the 2 compartments and it works like a champ.

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this awesome site.
Thanks Gene for the updated info which saved me from purchasing another motherboard.
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