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Gas dryer stopped igniting burner. Replaced igniter unit and flame sensor. With drum out for testing, start-up sequence is OK all the way to flame ignition. After installing drum and closing up unit, start-up sequence goes all the way to point when flame should ignite, but does not. Igniter glows red hot for several seconds before going out. Igniter will try again after a while, but no flame-on. Take the unit apart, remove the drum and everything works great.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/16/2013(UTC)
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Check to see if you have ventilation issues in your ducting make sure inside the unit and the wall ducting is clear......test the unit with the ducting off after you assemble it that should show you if it's a venilation issue also clean all the vents for incoming air into the unit.........also you may have an intermittent issue with your gas coils........Coils will work off an on for a long period of time and their a usual culprit and only cost about $20
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/26/2013(UTC)
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wow, watching this one... exact same works when open on my dryer. get cycling glow from the ignitor when the tub is in, fire when its out. i don't think its the ducting ventilation as i never even put the back panel back on.
one thing to think of though, is that when the tub is not on, there is no suction drawing air through the burner... mine pulls via the exhaust vent, which needs to go through the tub before it can pull from the burner.
to me it suggests the coils, as possibly the still air allows the flame to stay lit when there is too small amount of gas going through the valve...
problem with mine is the coils are integral with the valve and cost closer to $70, even though they all look nearly identical...
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the response Humbolt, but the solenoids have been replaced along with the ignitor and flame sensor. Can't be a venting problem since the dryer is disconnected from the discharge and sitting all by itself in the middle of the room. All lint has been cleaned from passages, too. Everything works perfectly when the front panel is off and the drum is out. Put the drum back in and close the front - no flame.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/26/2013(UTC)
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something else.... i bet if you check yours it's the same, the barrel doesn't have to be out, just hold the door switch to trick it and i bet it'll run. i changed out my coils today as well and the result is the same. the only difference between working and not is that air is flowing through the heat tube and exhaust tube when it doesn't work, and not flowing in the heat tube when it does. the following was in another thread... Originally Posted by: Gene  There are five major electrical parts involved in the heating process: 1. Hi limit thermostat 2. Cycling thermostat 3. Igniter 4. Flame sensor 5. Gas valve coils How to find out which part causing the problem? Pretty simple: all of these parts have to be tested for continuity in the above sequence. The following article on our forum will explain in detail how to run a continuity test using either an analog meter or a digital meter - How To Check Continuity With OhmmeterIf any of them is open – it has to be replaced. Gas valve coils also could be tested by resistance. There are two coils – one with three terminals and one with two terminals. 1. Coil with two terminals should have 1220 ± 50 Ohms 2. Coil with three terminals if held with terminals in upper position: a) across the left and the middle terminals – 1365 ± 25 Ohms b) across the left and the right terminals – 560 ± 25 Ohms - The part number for the hi limit thermostat is AP275754 - The part number for the igniter is AP3464835 - The part number for the flame sensor is AP2910747 - The part number for the gas valve coils kit is AP3094251 - The part number for the cycling thermostat is AP276896The first four parts are located on or around the gas valve, the cycling thermostat is located on the blower cover. Good luck. Gene. only one thing wasn't clear... there are 4 prongs on the cycling thermostat... i got 0ohms at the outer two, but 7kohms across the inner. i don't know what that means. (open to either outer to inner, or inner to outer) don't know if this helps
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