Yes either everything is off or I am disconnecting it from the circuit before testing.

Pertaining to the sensor reading, temperature and chart comparison. Yes it says the chart is in KILO OHMS, but my sensor is reading 155 OHMS when it is cold. According to the chart for my sensor to read, 32 degrees for an example, the resistance would have to be 13,289 OHMS. Does that seem a little high to you? Could the chart have the decimal places incorrectly positioned? Instead of 13.290 should the chart say .13290.
What do you think?
Thanks again for all your help it is greatly appreciated!!

I have a five year old RS2534WW side by side Samsung refrigerator. Several months ago, the refrige side stopped to work. The reason is that the defrost unit does not work and the whole unit became the solid ice. After I artificially defrosted it, it worked well for another month. I keep this cycle again and again. Recently by use of self-dignostic function, It is indicated the refrigerator defrost error. I realize that I need to change the whole evaporator. I found that this part is not very expensive in your website. I will try to replace it by myself. In the service manul it is said when you do it, you need to follow the procedure of evacuate and recharge. I do not understang what means the " evacuate and recharge". Could some one tell me?

When you say artificially defrosted it, do you mean you unplugged it and let it unthaw or did you follow the manual for automatic defrost method? If you did this could you please explain in simplier steps how this is done, I couldn't quite follow the manual.

Mine is still doing the same thing after I replaced the sensor? How did you come to the conclusion that the whole evaporator needs replaced?
Thanks

I tested my thermistor and it tested bad, so I replaced it. Since then it is a little difficult to tell for sure if the problem is solved, I don't think the problem was fixed the fan still seems a little loud and getting louder but I won't know for sure until the frost bulids up enough to get into the fan and makes a familiar really loud noise as the fan hits the frost. What I don't get is, I know the thermistor was bad, but I don't understand why that would not fix the problem unless the build up of frost caused the thermistor to go bad.
What all have you replaced?

I've been reading and following along with your situation. I own a 3 year old Samsung RS230SH, Replacement parts for MAYTAG RS2630SH | AppliancePartsPros.com. I found the service manual, http://www.servicematters.com/m...library/docs/SAM0096.pdf, thanks to denman's links from this post. I am having similar problems like you; (1) refrigerator and freezer side gets warm after resetting. It functions properly for less than a month (2) I noticed the the back wall of the freezer (part 11) was partially iced up.

I was able to test for continuity on the sensor(part 16) and heater(part 19) from this diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.c...=1341467&NewWindow=1.

(1) The problem I have now is that I can't test for continuity on the thermistor(part 13). From reading this post, the circuit would be open if warm and closed if cold. I've placed the thermistor in another freezer and left it overnight so that it could be cold. I am still not getting any continuity from it. Does that mean that it's bad? Did I test it correctly?

(2) I also checked what I believe is another thermistor but has no part # that is located behind part 3 from this diagram http://www.appliancepartspros.c...=1341467&NewWindow=1. On page 26 of the service manual, http://www.servicematters.com/m...library/docs/SAM0096.pdf, they reference it as part 5-3 but it doesn't tell me what part or part# it is. It looks identical to the thermistor(part 13) except that the wire is about 1/4 inch longer. I also can't get continuity from this sensor either. Can someone tell me if this is the same part? And is it possibe that both sensors are bad?

Thanks in advance for your help.