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talbers  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 5:32:49 AM(UTC)
talbers

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The model number is actually TFX22ZR.

Well my refrigerator isn't working correctly and the coils in the freezer have enough ice to block the airflow. I turned the defrost timer to the defrost mode and the heaters don't work. I have not tested the heaters for continuity as the ends are heat shrinked on to the heaters but I would find it odd that both went out a the same time. I took the timer out of the fridge and tested for continuity. When turned the continuity on two of the terminals change so i assume that part it working correctly but I am not positive that the motor part is working correctly. That may be a mute point as when i manually turned it the defrost timers didn't come one.

How do I go about tracking down the problem?

Thanks for your help.
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Simon / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:08:12 AM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hello.

Please provide the complete model number of the unit.

Thank you.

Simon.
talbers  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 9:42:07 AM(UTC)
talbers

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TFX22ZR is what was on the door. It does have the ice maker as well.
Simon / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 10:29:50 AM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hello.

Look for the complete model number behind the toe grill on the right or inside the refrigerator section.Still missing 3 letters.
You can check the defrost heaters and defrost thermostat at the 3 wire disconnect plug. Just trace the wires and check the continuity. Remember that defrost thermostat should be ice cold when tested.

Post the results.

Simon.
Joe / APP Team  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 11:19:43 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: talbers Go to Quoted Post
The model number is actually TFX22ZR.

Well my refrigerator isn't working correctly and the coils in the freezer have enough ice to block the airflow. I turned the defrost timer to the defrost mode and the heaters don't work. I have not tested the heaters for continuity as the ends are heat shrinked on to the heaters but I would find it odd that both went out a the same time. I took the timer out of the fridge and tested for continuity. When turned the continuity on two of the terminals change so i assume that part it working correctly but I am not positive that the motor part is working correctly. That may be a mute point as when i manually turned it the defrost timers didn't come one.

How do I go about tracking down the problem?

Thanks for your help.

Talbers, To access the defrost heater

Part number: AP2635761
Part number: AP2635761


and thermostat

Part number: AP2639498
Part number: AP2639498


you'll need to empty the freezer compartment, and remove the rear wall, then you'll have access to the evaporator coils and components. Everything is probably frosted or iced over but you'll need to find the defrost thermostat. it should be "clipped to the back wall just above the evaporator coil, and disconnect the pink and orange wires, the thermostat should have a "closed" circuit on your meter if it's packed in ice or frost(you can remove it and place it in a glass of ice water if needed). When you find the blue wire to the heater, disconnect the blue and check across the blue wire to the heater and the pink wire to the thermostat, your meter should have a resistance reading of 20 to 22 ohms, any other reading indicates a faulty heater, and it will have to be replaced. If either of the heaters is shorted or broken, the heater will have to be replaced (they operate in a series circuit) if one is bad they both are bad.
Your defrost timer

Part number: AP2061708
Part number: AP2061708


Can be tested with a meter as well, terminal 1 to 3 is the timer motor, and should have a "closed" circuit at all times.You should be able to "feel" the motor running if you hold it in your hand just be careful not to shock your self. terminal 2 to 3 is the defrost cycle, it's the shorter of the two "clicks" and should be a "closed" circuit. Terminals 3 and 4 is the compressor circuit, it's the longer of the two clicks and should be a "closed" circuit. When the defrost cycle is active the compressor circuit is "open" when the compressor circuit is active, the defrost circuit is "open".
We've attached a wiring diagram to assist you in testing and diagnosing the refrigerator circuits.
File Attachment(s):
Binder1.pdf (164kb) downloaded 8 time(s).
talbers  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 11:25:55 AM(UTC)
talbers

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Thanks for the info. I will hopefully get time to check this out tonight and post my results back here.
Joe / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Wednesday, May 15, 2013 12:23:55 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: talbers Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for the info. I will hopefully get time to check this out tonight and post my results back here.


Thanks for the reply. I forgot to mention, there are several versions of this refrigerator. the parts and wiring diagram are for the "basic" early version. You'll need to use the complete model number of your refrigerator when ordering parts you need, but the basic information should still apply to the testing.
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